New Mexico: Of Turquoise, Coral, and Spiny Oysters

Ruidoso Downs, Cowboy Symposium 2012

A know-nothing disclaimer

Me offering a discourse on stones that Native Americans of the Southwest use to make jewelry is pretty presumptuous, since I know barely anything about it.

On the other hand, I'm a consumer of jewelry made by Indians of the Southwest, therefore I have standing to publicly fumble and bumble my way up a learning curve.


Turquoise

You'd think turquoise would be a straightforward matter. Special kind of blue with black veins spidering through it. Got it, right?

If only.

Here's a list of names for turquoise:

• "Natural" turquoise
• Turquoise "treated" to stabilize the stone
• Turquoise enhanced to add color
• "Reconstituted" turquoise (sometimes includes turquoise "trash" and sometimes has no turquoise at all) 
• Substituted turquoise (uses a real stone, but one that is enhanced to imitate turquoise or that is sold as turquoise, falsely)
• Fake stone (e.g. made from plastic or polymer clay)

There's nothing inherently wrong with any of the above as long as the seller is honest about his product, allowing the buyer to make an informed decision about his purchase. 

Here is a clear and concise discourse on the subject of turquoise. The Turquoise Guide also offers a good overview. Reading both will give you the best picture. 


Information that surprised me

• I used to think turquoise was plentiful, but it isn't. Indeed, most of the turquoise mines, worldwide, have been tapped out. 
• Very little turquoise jewelry is made of so-called "natural turquoise," that is, turquoise virtually untouched by any sort of processing before being made into jewelry. And there's good reason for this - natural turquoise can fracture easily, and because it's very porous, it is susceptible to discoloration, stains, and fading. So treating the turquoise can extend the life and beauty of the stone.

So the important tip about buying turquoise is to ask the seller to tell you about the turquoise she's selling.

Red coral aka precious coral. Credit: Oceana

Coral

I used to hold three contradictory beliefs about coral. I "knew" it was a stone and I also "knew" it was the remains of a formerly-living marine animal. And because I always associated it with Southwest Indian jewelry, I held the unexamined belief that coral was "somehow" indigenous to the Southwest, from prehistoric seas perhaps.


Of course, now I know I didn't really know anything.

The color red has always been prized in Native American jewelry. Before Europeans introduced coral to Indians about 600 years ago, they often used spiny oyster shell for the desired red. Spiny oyster had been used for centuries in North America, believed to be traded north from as far away as Ecuador. 

The red coral we usually think about in Indian jewelry doesn't come from the shallow coral reefs such as the Great Barrier Reef in Australia or the Belize Barrier Reef. Rather, it comes from the deeps of the sea. For centuries, such coral could be found off  in the Mediterranean, off the coast of Italy.

But red coral is now scarce because of over-harvesting. Some jewelers no longer sell jewelry made with red coral because it encourages the depletion of remaining red coral. Some artists only use coral salvaged from old pieces of jewelry.

As with turquoise, there's coral and then there's "coral." 

• Red, precious, blood, or oxblood coral (endangered and regulated)
• Bamboo coral or "apple coral," often dyed to replicate red coral
• Sponge coral, often dyed to replicate red coral

As with turquoise, nothing is intrinsically wrong with bamboo or sponge coral being treated to appear as red coral, as long as you know this is what you're buying.

Spiny oyster. Credit: Wikipedia

Spiny oyster shell

I love spiny oyster shell. I like the name, I like the variegated color, and I like that such beauty comes from something so prosaic as a shell. 

I'd never heard of spiny oyster til I was in Hannibal, Missouri, for a weekend some years ago. My travel companions and I popped in and out of some stores, and one was a jewelry store, where I saw this ring:

The owner explained that he got his jewelry from the Southwest, and as with the odd mythical beliefs I had about coral, I also had the confused idea that spiny oyster was also indigenous to the Southwest. In fact, some sources say it exists only in along Baja California; other sources say it is also in South America.

I wish there were more information on spiny oyster shell, but sadly, I'm unable to find much. But the colors range among red, orange, and purple.

Very Large Array, New Mexico, Part 2: Geeky Wonderfulness

Very Large Array, Highway 60, near Magdalena, New Mexico

Getting to the Very Large Array (VLA) requires a pretty serious investment in time and gas, so listen up:

If you happen to be driving by (only likely if you're using the lonely Highway 60 to get from Socorro to, say,  well, never mind, Highway 60 isn't an efficient way to get to anywhere unless your destination is Pie Town) ....

So let me approach it this way: If I made a special trip to the VLA, I would make damn sure it was on the first Saturday of the month, when I can go on the 11:00, 1:00, or 3:00 tour.

If you don't go on a tour, then sure, you can walk over to one of the dishes, and visit the small (and cramped, truth be told) visitor's center and gift shop, but if you're like me, it will feel pretty low-calorie.

With the free tour, however, you get to: 

• Watch a pretty interesting movie;
• Listen to a knowledgeable docent and ask her geeky questions; 
• Go into the building with the Control Room (with the avocado phones!);
• Talk to the Control Guy on duty; 
• See the Real Live Geeky Computer Stuff in the Control Room; and  
• Go out on the balcony overlooking the dishes. 

The tour took about an hour and a half, so plan a solid two hours for your on-site visit. Figure close to an hour to get from Socorro to the VLA.

Uh, what's VLA about? Radio astronomy.

Whirlpool Galaxy. Credit: National Radio Astronomy Observatory

And now I need to amend what I said about there being nothing along Highway 60. I was kicking myself for not planning an overnight stay in Magdalena or even Socorro because I passed these really intriguing spots that I didn't have time to explore on a one-day trip to/from Alamogordo:

• Water Canyon
• The Box

And when I turned onto Highway 52, and saw a road sign pointing to Winston, NM, only 59 miles away, I was really kicking myself, because there's a story there that I want to hear, having to do with Victorio's great-great granddaughter ....but it will keep for another day.



A slide show of the Very Large Array:

#30

Relocation 2013, Part 1: Mexico!

Virgin of Ocotlan Basilica, Ocotlan, Tlaxcala, Mexico

Damn, is it that time already?


Back here, I drilled down my decision to either Mexico or New Mexico for 2012/2013.

This go-round, after toying with other possibilities, I've settled on Mexico.

Last year, these were my criteria:

• Reasonable access to family/friends; 
• Proximity to mountains; 
• Locations with mild(er) climate; 
• Cultural and language diversity; 
• Low cost of living; and 
• Income opportunities

For 2013/2014, my criteria are ...  huh .... identical, if one defines "income opportunities" to mean access to reliable and high-speed internet access, as my plan is to continue teaching English online.

So now that I know the country ... time to figure out the city.

My wish list for the city are (in addition to the above):

• Population less than 500,000 and more than 50,000
• Sense of place
• Socio-economic, age, and ethnic diversity
• Trees, pretty scenery; a lake or river would be nice
• In a location that's a good base for exploring the entire country
• Not in a criminal-gang hotspot.
• Elevation lower than 7000 feet
• Reliable and fast internet connection (this one is a deal breaker)
• Within 3 hours of an international airport (preferably two)

But before I go to Mexico, I'll leave New Mexico (boo hoo) at the end of September, and spend October in Missouri.

Of course .... if I learned only one thing in Georgia, it was this: Be flexible. So, quien sabe? Maybe my plans will change.

Very Large Array, New Mexico, Part 1: Hipster Prime

Very Large Array, Highway 52, New Mexico

Is it  ironic that the Very Large Array - make that the Expanded Very Large Array - the very epitome of sci-fi goodness - is so 1970s?

Take the avocado green, old-school, analog phones.

Or the Southwestern "style," puffy polyester chairs.

Very Large Array, Highway 52, New Mexico

Or the virgin vinyl couch.

Very Large Array, Highway 52, New Mexico

This is Geek Central. They don't care what you think about their decor. Besides, what's wrong with it? The phones still work. The chairs and couches still do their jobs. It's like, "Hey, we're watching stars explode and black holes consume planets every day . ... what are you doing"? 


And guess what. You only get to see this behind-the-scenes coolness if you go on one of the guided tours. First Saturday of every month at 11:00, 1:00, and 3:00. Plan for two hours. 

And put your cell phone on "airplane mode" when you enter.     

Very Large Array, Highway 52, New Mexico

Highway 60, New Mexico: Stories at a Shrine

Santo Nino de Atocha Shrine, Highway 60, near Socorro, New Mexico

On my way to the Very Large Array the other day, I caught sight of a tiny building and a large cross out of the corner of my left eye. I was in a dash to arrive at the VLA in time for the 1:00 tour, and I promised myself I would check it out on my return home.

Miniature church on Megobroba Street, Rustavi, Georgia

Miniature church, Rustavi, Georgia

What attracted my attention was that it reminded me of the tiny churches in Georgia, constructed by an individual or family.










So on my way back from VLA, I re-located the little monument (between mile markers 131 and 135), and as I pulled off the highway saw a car and a man visiting the place. Oh, damn, I thought. Company. But I continued anyway and pulled up to the little fenced-in place, and got out of my car.

Santo Nino de Atocha Shrine, Highway 60 near Socorro, New Mexico

And that's when I learned the stories of this place.

The man's name was Ernie Silva. The shrine, devoted to Santo Nino de Atocha, used to be over on the other side of the highway, up aways, but when they built a new bridge, Mr. Silva's family got permission to relocate the shrine to its current location.

Mr. Silva's mother conceived of the shrine - she had it made as a promise to God to bring her son, Nicanor, back safely from World War II. On the crucifix is a photo of Nicanor and his wife Edith. Both are now deceased, but Nicanor Silva did, indeed, come home safely.

Ernie Silva and another brother later served in the Vietnam War. Mr. Silva is the youngest of 14 children. He's now 71 and his oldest-living sister is 96.

In addition to the crucifix and the pink shrine is a white memorial. About 10 years ago, a man was found dead on the lane that is beside the Santo Nino de Atocha Shrine. He had been murdered. His name was Peter Lopez. The homicide remains unsolved.

Mr. Silva pointed to the spiral notebooks inside the tiny chapel. He said people from all over leave their names in the notebooks. When Mr. Lopez was found killed, the police took the notebooks to see if they could find any clues that would point them to the killer.

Santo Nino de Atocha Shrine, Highway 60, near Socorro, New Mexico

Mr. Lopez' mother asked the Silvas for permission to erect the memorial to her son, and they agreed.

Many people visit the Santo Nino de Atocha Shrine. Sometimes they leave items as part of a prayer for safety for themselves or loved ones.

Santo Nino de Atocha Shrine, Highway 60, near Socorro, New Mexico

Mr. Silva was at the shrine to complete some maintenance work there.

I asked Mr. Silva where Atocha was, and he didn't know.

So, of course, I have now looked this up and in the process, have discovered Southwest Crossroads: Cultures and History of the American Southwest. From this rich resource comes one little girl's story about her need to kidnap and hold hostage the Santo Nino: The Miracle of the Santo Nino.

Here is a website devoted to information about the Santo Nino de Atocha.

There's some question about the origin of "Atocha." Was it: "... Antioch [in present-day Turkey], and that St. Luke the Evangelist was the sculptor of the first mother-and-child image. .."?

Or was it in honor of Atocha, a Madrid suburb that was home to a large men's prison in the 15th century, where sprang up a legend: "... Those prisoners who had no young children to feed them were being visited and fed by a young boy. None of the children knew who he was, but the little water gourd he carried was never empty, and there was always plenty of bread in his basket to feed all the hapless prisoners without children of their own to bring them their food. He came at night, slipping past the sleeping guards or smiling politely at those who were alert. Those who had asked the Virgin of Atocha for a miracle began to suspect the identity of the little boy. As if in confirmation, the shoes on the statue of the child Jesus were worn down. When they replaced the shoes with new ones, those too were worn out. .... "

So now I feel lucky that Mr. Silva was at the shrine when I arrived. 

Magic Between Two Mountain Ranges

I never would have guessed the magic that occurs when you live between two mountain ranges.

You get two sunrises and two sunsets. Every day that the sun shines.

Yesterday, here are the two sunsets I saw - one on the east and one on the west - within minutes of each other.

Sunset in the east, Sacramento Mountains (maybe), Highway 54, south of Carrizozo, New Mexico

 

Sunset in the west, San Andres (maybe) Mountains, Highway 54, south of Carrizozo, New Mexico

Back to Releasing More Stuff

Remaining cache of classic sci-fi, Alamogordo, New Mexico

My beautiful science fiction

After a hiatus, I'm back to re-reading my classic paper-back science fiction. Feels good. Ah, I love my Heinlein, Pohl, and Asimov.  But I intend to release to the universe all of my remaining cache before I leave New Mexico in October.

Poster from road trip to Alaska in 1996

Three picture frames with glass

I brought these pictures with me - ones that I hadn't found homes for before I left Missouri - thinking I'd pop in my own photography and then sell or gift them. That hasn't happened yet, and if it doesn't soon, I'll sell what I've got - probably for the frames/glass rather than the current artwork within. I'm feeling weighed down by their presence. One of the frames holds a poster from a road trip I took to Alaska with my daughter in 1996. I care about this one. Don't care so much about the artwork in the other two frames.


Socks

Attrition works its way into stuff divestment - three pairs of socks have been tossed recently because the heels have worn through.  Not sure why it feels good that this is so.


Trousers

Two pairs of trousers have worn through in areas that can't be fixed easily or prettily. One pair I'll have to toss. The other I'll keep and just wear for camping or hiking, then unload when I leave New Mexico.

The pair I'm tossing has gone with me to Mexico, Ethiopia, Caucasus Georgia, and now New Mexico. Good job.

Still feels good to unload stuff. 
  

Red Paint Powwow, Part 6: North and South and drum and Drum

Drum, Red Paint Powwow, Silver City, New Mexico

The Red Paint Powwow is an annual event in Silver City, New Mexico, hosted by the Chiricahua Apache. I attended the powwow on Saturday, January 19, 2013.


Part 6?! Who knew powwows were so complex? (And there's more to come!) 

I was surprised to hear the emcee refer to "northern" and "southern song" at the Red Paint Powwow. 

I thought I'd be doing one post on the northern/southern "song" and a separate post on "drumming," but it appears the two aren't really separable. I guess since the drummers are also the singers, it makes sense.

There were six Drums at the Red Paint Powwow. Until I researched this, I would have said there were six drumming groups, but apparently the group is the Drum in powwow parlance.

(I'll capitalize the word to denote the instrument and the accompanying group, and use small "d" to denote just the instrument.)

At the Red Paint Powwow, there was a host northern Drum ("Star Feather") and a host southern Drum ("Southern Outlawz").

Below is a video from Southern Outlawz:

And Star Feather:

I have my favorite - which is yours? 

The Drum immediately in front of me was called either "Cache Creek" or "Cash Creek." Since there was U.S. currency tucked into the group's instrument, maybe it was Cash Creek. I got kind of a smart-ass response from the Drum leader when I asked about the bills interspersed around the instrument.

The southern and northern songs have a different tonality and style as explained here: "Singing differs by region in that a high falsetto produced deep in one's throat is used in the north while in the south a lower range is used."

In the drumming, there is often a "faster beat in the north and a slower beat in the south." (From Encyclopedia of the Great Plains)

I invite you to listen again to the southern and northern Drums above and see if you can hear the higher v. lower and the faster v. slower.

I am happy to be learning more about powwows now so I'll be able to appreciate what I see and hear all the better when I go to the Gathering of Nations in April.

Red Paint Powwow, Part 5: Gaan Dancers

Gaan dancers from Mescalero. Alamogordo, New Mexico. Credit: John Bear

The Red Paint Powwow is an annual event in Silver City, New Mexico, hosted by the Chiricahua Apache. I attended the powwow on Saturday, January 19, 2013.

It's probably irreverent to say this, but I'll say it anyway - the Apache Gaan dancers are the coolest-looking.

Also known as Ga'an dancers, Crown dancers, or Mountain Spirit dancers, all of their dances are considered sacred.

Gaan dancers. Credit: SFMOMA

Amendment: I get the impression that in some venues, they modify their song and movements so as not to compromise the dancers'  responsibility to protect the sanctity of the Gaan rite.


The story

An excerpt from Native Peoples of the Southwest, Trudy Griffin Pierce, University of New Mexico Press, 2000, ISBN: 0-8263-1907-6:

"One of the most important holy beings for Apaches is White-Painted Woman, also known as Changing Woman or White Shell Woman. Her sons, Killer of Enemies and Child Born of Water, triumphed over the evils of the world personified as monsters, making the world safe for humans. The Mountain Spirits ensure the well-being of the people by protecting them from epidemic diseases and enemies. The Mountain Spirit Dancers or Crown Dancers "become" these sacred beings in the same way that the Hopi who dance specific katsinam become those katsina spirits. ... Their heads crowned with wooden slat headdresses, four Mountain Spirit Dancers and a clown wield their wooden swords as they dance around the fire. The bull-roarer, which is whirled on a length of string to produce a distinctive, resonating sound, drums, and singing accompany their dancing among the Western Apache. The bull-roarer is not used among the Eastern Apache."

Not mentioned above is the vocal sound made by some of the dancers at different intervals - to me, it sounds similar to, but not exactly, like a western screech owl. 

In the video below, from an Arizona event, you can hear both the bird (?) call and the so-called "bull-roarer." You'll hear the bird vocalization while the dancers first come out. You'll hear the start of the bull-roarer at :51.

The dancer with the bull-roarer is The Clown. From Native American Culture: About Apache Dances, an excerpt:

"There are five Crown Dancers, including four masked dancers representing the directions of north, south, east, and west. The fifth dancer is the clown, who protects the others by driving away evil spirits with the sound of his humming bull-roarer, a thin piece of wood suspended from a string and swung in a circle."

To fully address the role of the Clown in Navajo, Apache, and indeed, many cultures (though perhaps not specifically referred to as a clown), I'd need to just hand over a book. Or books. Tony Hillerman centers one of his books around clowns in Sacred Clowns.

As to Apache tradition, in this excerpt from The Clown's Way, by Barbara Tedlock:

"The Jicarilla Apache, however, did not see this sunlight world purely good, but as containing disease; the clown that led them out of the dark earth (thought of as perfectly spiritual and holy) was equipped with a “horrible non-human laugh” which scared way the sickness on the earth’s surface. In this origin story we learn a basic curing technique which is still practiced today by clowns in many tribes. Just as these Apache clowns kept smallpox and other epidemics away from the people with their sudden terrifying laugh, the Assiniboine, Plains Cree, and Plains Ojibwa clowns scare disease out of the people. Navajo clowns during their Mud Dance all of a sudden stop dancing and rush up to a sick person and lift him high above their heads, sometimes tossing him into the air.”

I'm wondering if the rodeo clown derives from the Southwestern Indians' use of the clown in their spiritual tradition. After all, the purpose of the rodeo clown is to protect the riders from the bulls or horses, is it not? Huh, this resource implies not, but when I read the full description, it would seem the rodeo clowns share much in common with that of the Indian clown, although without the spiritual dimension.

Gaan dancers, 1887. Credit: First People

The crown

Another excerpt from Native American Culture: About Apache Dances:   

"The dancers decide what symbols to put on their crowns. Symbols often honor forms in nature, and many crowns include the Apache cross to signify the four sacred directions. Some crown headdresses are adorned with eagle feathers, because the eagle is sacred to the Apache. ..."

 

St. Joseph Apache Mission Church, Mescalero, New Mexico

My understanding is that the crown itself evokes antlers.



I liked how the St. Joseph Apache Mission Church in Mescalero incorporated traditional crown design.  















Noah Nez, the Native Skeptic, offers a thorough overview on Gaan dancers from both a personal and academic perspective. I found several of the sources for my post by visiting his essay.


My experience

The Gaan dancers are dramatic. With their bodies painted white or black, with contrasting color symbols, masked faces, the crown, swords, and the bird call .....whew. Very cool.

The emcee did not instruct the audience to forego photography during the Gaan dance, which he did for the gourd dance. I filmed the dancers as they came into the arena, and the gentleman next to me, a gourd dancer, asked that I not film them. I chose to honor his request, out of respect for him. I had watched as he'd very carefully placed his gourd-dance items into the specially-made wooden box, one at at time, each in a prescribed spot and placement. I saw memorial flyers on the inside of the box lid, honoring two deceased individuals he obviously held in esteem.

I'm looking forward to the summer, when the Mescalero Apaches allow non-Apaches to be guests at part of the girls' puberty rite in Mescalero, and when the Gaan dancers will perform.

January - The Review and Refresh Month

Albeit the 30th, it is still January, that month of fresh starts. 


So I'm looking at this checklist of things that everyone, especially portable folk, needs to review and update regularly:

1. My resume - checking my online version and print version
2. File back-ups on my external devices, which in my case, are flash drives. Yes, I have cloud storage that automatically backs up my stuff, but cloud apps get compromised. And if it's not the cloud storage application that fails, it might be my internet access. And my PC. So it's best to also have a tangible back-up.
3. Password review - which passwords have gone stale and warrant replacement?
4. Speaking of password storage - yes, there are some good password management apps out there, but again, one must assume working access to the internet or to one's PC to enjoy the benefit. It's a good practice to store my passwords in hard copy, in a secure place, also. Some entries may fall out of date when I replace passwords, but at any given moment, most will still be valid, assuming I'm fairly vigilant about updating the hard copy. Note: When I'm traveling long term, then I'm not going to have a hard copy of all my passwords with me; I'm only going to carry the most critical ones, and protect that short list as rigorously as I do my money.
5. Access to my data assets in case of emergency or death. Just talked about this recently. Since then, yikes, I haven't yet had my will witnessed and signed, though I've created one. And I have selected a provider that facilitates the access to my data assets in the event of my death.

Red Paint Powwow, Part 4: The Grand Entry

Red Paint Powwow, Silver City, New Mexico

The Red Paint Powwow is an annual event in Silver City, New Mexico, hosted by the Chiricahua Apache. I attended the powwow on Saturday, January 19, 2013.

The Grand Entry is the most exhilarating event at a powwow, yes? All of the colors, the dance, the sounds, the sheer volume of the sensory feast make it so.

With a front-row seat, I had almost too good a view, as I found that my camera couldn't capture the entire person before me - his face and his regalia and his footwork. This turned out to be a benefit, actually, because in having to choose between a performer's face/regalia and his footwork, I often chose the footwork, something that might otherwise have been overlooked due to the competing beauty of the attire.

The Grand Entry video requires a bit of a time investment, so I'll highlight some points along the way.

First, notice that the audience stands during the Grand Entry.

At 1:18: Note that the Color Guard is among the first entrants. First flag? The American flag. Honored members of the Grand Entry? Veterans. Publicly-displayed respect for veterans seems to be a prominent feature in New Mexican communities with a large Indian population.

At 1:46: See the POW-MIA flag? I was startled at first, but then not, to learn that because Indians were prisoners of war at various times and places in the U.S., the significance of the POW-MIA flag goes beyond what most Americans think of when we see this flag. (I wonder if there are Americans of Japanese descent who feel the same.)

At 2:14: The White Eagle Gourd Dance Society members.

At 2:22: The "Chinese Hopi" and Miss Mescalero Apache.  

 
At 5:39: Appears a woman whose attire is dazzling in the color and intricacy of its beadwork and her footwork - it is such a cliche, but true: Her dance steps are so light, they are like that of a beautiful deer. What she makes appear so effortless in the airiness of her steps must be very tiring.

As  you might expect, the performers fall along a continuum between full body-mind focus into their dance on one end and bored, going (barely) through the motions on the other.

Red Paint Powwow, Silver City, New Mexico

Red Paint Powwow, New Mexico, Part 3: The Gourd Dance

Gourd dancer. Credit: Tyrone Wilson(pictured) and Kevin Anderson (photographer)

The Red Paint Powwow is an annual event in Silver City, New Mexico, hosted by the Chiricahua Apache. I attended the powwow on Saturday, January 19, 2013.



The White Eagle Gourd Society performed the gourd dance on several occasions during the powwow.

Gourd dancers. Credit: Powwow.com

The story behind the gourd dance

The generally-accepted story is this, which I excerpted from The Daily Times (Farmington, NM):

"Legend has it that a Kiowa warrior was trying to find his way back to his village when he heard a melody from the other side of a hill. He went to the top of the hill and peered down, where he saw Red Wolf bouncing up and down on his haunches. The wolf had a fan in his left hand and a rattle in his right. He was singing melodies, and at the end of each song, he raised his rattle to the sky, shook it and let out a howl. At dawn, Red Wolf told the warrior the songs were a gift to the people so they could continue honoring their warriors...."

The Navajo and other groups have adopted the gourd dance from the Kiowa, who are based in Oklahoma.  Here is a lively discussion about the dance's origins and who "owns" the dance. There are a few jibes directed at the Navajo. 

Gourd dancers. Credit: Red Star Intertribal Gourd Dance Society.

Dance attire

The Golden State Gourd Society explains thoroughly about appropriate dress for the gourd dance: 

"... If the dancer does not have traditional clothing he should wear dress pants, a plain long sleeve colored dress shirt and moccasins. No cowboy hats, ball caps, boots or tennis shoes should be worn, but dress shoes are acceptable.  Other articles that should be worn are a bandolier made of two strands of mescal and silver beads draped over the left shoulder, crossing the heart and bound together at the right hip.  A sash, usually made of velvet with beaded trim on the ends, should be around the waist and tied at the right hip.  A red and blue blanket should be draped over the shoulders or worn over the right shoulder and held together over the arms at the left hip.  ... Gourds used today are natural gourds, German silver, milk cans, salt and pepper shakers or baking powder cans, which are painted for decoration.  The handles are usually decorated with beads and rolled fringe, with horse hair and assorted feathers adorning the tip.  A fan is carried in the opposite hand.  ...."

At the Red Paint Powwow, the emcee explained that veterans could wear veterans' caps or berets while they participated in the gourd dance, but otherwise dancers could not wear modern-day hats.

Choctaw gourd dancers, James family, Oklahoma. Credit: Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma.

From article, For Tribe and Country, three generations deep in tradition: "'It’s very spiritual,'” says Michael [James]. “'Like a prayer in movement, the positive vibration, the drumming. It’s like singing a hymn in church. I feel a connection to earth and sky, like it’s all interwoven during the gourd dancing.'”

What the dance is like

The gourd dance and the trance dance of the "whirling dervishes" share characteristics. There is a building-up of sound and beat and rhythm as the participants warm up to the mind-body prayer that is the trance dance or the gourd dance.  

First came drumming, with singing. The gourd dancers at this time remained in the audience. After a time of drumming, I noted that some men in the audience began to shake their hand-held gourd instruments. (A man seated next to me was a gourd dancer.)

Presently, the gourd dancers stood in place and shook their gourds to the drumming and the singers.

With changes to the drumming and singing, the gourd dancers moved into the dance arena, with small steps and gourd shakes. When the drums rose to a crescendo, the dancers froze in place, then moved again when the drumming calmed. 

After awhile, I noticed a few women who moved to the perimeter of the dance arena. They bent their knees in concert with the drum beats.

Again, the Golden State Gourd Society helps out with a fine description:

"The Gourd Dance is a dance of dignity and pride. As the dance begins, the dancers are seated around the arena.  As the starting song is sung, the seated dancers begin to shake their gourds to the beat of the drum, but do not dance to the first song.  As the song ends the dancers give a howl/yell at the end of the song.  As the tempo increases, during the second song, the dancers rise from their chairs.  The dancers step in place or walk in time with the music during the slow beat of the drum, moving freely around the arena. Once the tempo changes, they once again stand in place and dance to the beat of the drum, shaking their gourd. 

"When the song ends, the dancer raises his gourd and shakes it vigorously ending with a howl/yell (honoring the Red Wolf) and waits for the next song to begin.  Songs are usually sung in sets of four (this is left to the discretion of the head singer) and the dancers do not sit down again until the full set of gourd dance songs has ended or they are dismissed.

"Once the gourd dancers start to dance, the women take their places behind the men, dancing in place, in the outer arena.  The women never start dancing before the men and never walk in front of the dancers. ...."

As with similar dances, there are moments of intense interest, moments of boredom and distraction, and moments of flow as one merges into the sound and the movement.  Dances like these take time to sink into one's body and head. 

An idea I find so fascinating is how certain tonalities and rhythms affect our brain. I think of the man who wrote a book about his experiences as an expedition doctor. He began the book with the story of a Tibetan sherpa who had seriously injured his head on a climb. The man's injury was such that it was virtually certain to be fatal. But his companions had come to the medical tent (or they sent monks?) to chant non-stop, day and night, in the man's tent while he lay there, unresponsive. The author was amazed to realize that, over the course of many hours, the man began to recover. Evidently, the qualities of the sound caused healing changes in the man's brain.


 

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

On my way back to Alamogordo from a weekend in Silver City, I had a picnic lunch at the unusual and picturesque City of Rocks State Park.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

My picnic view on a gorgeous day.

While I ate my lunch, some sparrows and one noisily impatient raven hovered close in the hopes of feasting off lunch detritus. As if.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

After lunch, I took a walk.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

.. and then drove up top of a hill, where I could see the City of Rocks from a distance. It's odd to see the community of stones, which loom so large when you're among them, appear so inconsequential from afar.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.

City of Rocks State Park, New Mexico.