15 Years Ago: EFL --> Putting in for Georgia

 

Wow. May 2011 marked the start of a remarkable year in the Caucasus. 

At this point, I had dotted the I's and crossed the T's on two important chapters in my life, having:

• Sold my house and distributed most of my household belongings; and
• Taken my two-month solo trip to Ethiopia. 

And I had poured a new foundation for my envisioned future by earning a CELTA certificate in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. It was such a beautiful thing that family and friends visited with me in Playa during my time there. 

And two friends visited me in Georgia during my tenure there. How extra-special it was to share that life experience.

Wow.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

EFL --> Putting in For Georgia

I'm working on an application to teach English in Georgia.

Not that Georgia.

This Georgia.

This video is a great intro to Georgia - including the Wow! dancing by the kids - especially at 1:19! 

Georgians have a tradition similar to that of the Oromo in Ethiopia - bride kidnapping. In theory, these things don't happen so much anymore. As with Ethiopia, Georgia was among the first countries (however you choose to define "country") to embrace Christianity. Most Georgians are members of the Georgian Orthodox Church. And, as with Amharinga in Ethiopia, the Georgian language uses a unique alphabet. 

When I think of Georgia, I always think of gorgeous scenery and high adventure - swashbuckling soldiers, valiant steeds, and dramatic mountains in the distance. 

No guarantees I'll end up in Georgia, but it is an exciting possibility.

Flashback to July 2011: Rustavi: In the Society of Women

From July 26, 2011, when I was in Caucasus Georgia, in the city of Rustavi:

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Rustavi: In the Society of Women

Tonight I enjoyed another evening in the society of women.

I did the same the evening before, the day before that, and the day before that.

At such gatherings, the hostess presents an array of light foods. In the past week, I've seen watermelon, honeydew melon, cheese, nuts, chocolates or cookies, pretzel sticks, khachapuri, bread, coffee, and often, some sort of alcoholic beverage (beer, chacha, cognac, vodka).  A visitor always brings a little something. A large candy bar, a bag of cookies, or some sunflower seeds are examples I've seen this past week.

Credit: Khachapuri

And then women chat about the usual stuff of life - births, deaths, illness, relationships, politics, religion, neighbors, work ...

Toasts are made, offering good thoughts to others present.

It's very nice to be in this society of women. They have been very kind and welcoming to me.

Tonight, when the hostess began to pour the coffee into our glass espresso cups, I watched transfixed as it seemed to crawl out of the kettle like some living thing from the primordial ooze. I thought maybe it wasn't coffee - perhaps it was a thick, thick chocolate drink.  I wondered what it was going to taste like. As it turned out, it was coffee, and it was good.

Our hostess, N., whom we'd visited a couple of nights before, again played the piano while her son, O. sang. Later, despite the heat, he and a couple of the women danced traditional Georgian dances. By this time, we'd drunk a bit of cognac, so all of us felt quite mellow.  The man of the house came in, and we consumed more cognac. He brought with him a deliciously cold ice cream bar for each of us. Wonderfully cold.

Those who can leave Rustavi during this sweating season do so, taking refuge in the cooler mountains. Alternatively, they go to Batumi and hang out by the Black Sea.

I'm hopeful to go to my hostess' family village in Gurjaani this weekend.

I crave the sight of trees, cool streams, and distant mountains. 

Credit: Rural Tourism

Rootless flashback: Orthodox Easter in Caucasus Georgia

Easter supra, Rustavi, Georgia (Caucasus), April 2012.

Today is Orthodox Easter. It's a sentimental day, bringing colorful memories of Eastertime in Caucasus Georgia.

Easter supra, Rustavi, Georgia (Caucasus), April 2012.

I was so lucky to have a couple of American friends visit me during Easter 2012 in Rustavi, Georgia. Not only did I enjoy their company, but it was satisfying to share such a rich cultural experience.

Palm Sunday, Batumi, Georgia (Caucasus), April 2012.

Some videos might tell the story best.

Palm Sunday, Batumi, Georgia (Caucasus), April 2012.

Palm Sunday in an Orthodox church in Batumi here:




My host family's grandsons in traditional polyphonic song at the Easter supra here:






My host family's son and his family singing together the song, kargi gogo (good girl) here:





When I look at the photos, videos, and past blog posts, it reminds me how lucky I am to have choices and the opportunity to travel.

Lafayette: Are There Georgians Here?

No sunflower seeds, Chenier Branch, Lafayette Library, Lafayette, Louisiana.

This sign is on the entrance to the Chenier Branch of the Lafayette Library System.

The sign made me smile because it reminded me of Caucasus Georgia. 

It warrants a re-post from June 27, 2012, on the subject of Georgians and sunflower seeds:

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Georgians Have Been Here

Georgians love sunflower seeds.

Sunflower seeds in Caucasus Georgia

Sunflower seeds in Caucasus Georgia

Sunflower seeds in Caucasus Georgia

I could write a post on this, but TLG colleague, Lauren, has already done it so well here.

My fantasy is of a murder mystery, where a savvy detective arrives upon the scene of the crime, looks everything over, then pronounces, "The killer is from Georgia."  When all of her comrades look at her, with mouths open, brows raised, the detective, a woman of few words, points to the ground next to the body and says, "Sunflower seeds."

A Day in June: Flowers in Rustavi

By Nely's building, Rustavi, Georgia. First day of summer 2012.

Yes, I've been gathering stray photo lambs of late.

Today it's a memory of a day in June in Old Rustavi, Caucasus Georgia. Look at the patina on this building! I lived in this building for about nine months, in a room with a fairy-tale view from the French windows and the wide wooden sill.  

View from my window, Rustavi, Georgia. September 2011.

Most weekdays, I walked down this gravel path to work, crossed the street, cut through some yards, traversed the courthouse square, skirted the city-center park, then went down the street to the police building where I taught. 

By Nely's building, Rustavi, Georgia. First day of summer 2012.

On the first day of summer, June 20, 2012, the blue and yellow and white flowers were too merry to pass by without a proper howdy-do by my camera.

Fat apricots lolling about on first day of summer 2012, Rustavi, Georgia

 
 Sumptous apricots, so plentiful, they rolled about the yards.

On a Dark and Stormy Day On a Marshrutka. A Plan.

Scene from a marshrutka. Between Rustavi and Tbilisi. June 2012. 

Just about every weekend I was on a marshrutka from Rustavi to Tbilisi.

Friday, June 8, 2012, was no exception.

It may have been this very day when it struck me, just like this storm wave that I watched from the marshrutka window as it reared up to devour multiple villages and roving livestock. "It" being the idea of seeing the world one year at a time.

Scene from a marshrutka. Between Rustavi and Tbilisi. June 2012. 

So far, this plan for super s-l-o-w travel has been working out even better than I could have imagined.

What's surprising to me is that I spent the first two years post-Georgia (country of) in the USA - one year in New Mexico and the next in South Louisiana.

Each year, I keep thinking I'll be out of the US. My plan for 2015 was no exception - it was to be the year of Oaxaca, Mexico. Ah, Mexico - always the bridesmaid, never the bride. Maybe next year.

Instead, in a plot twist I didn't see coming, I'm going to do a second year in Louisiana. Not just Louisiana, but South Louisiana. Not in Lafayette, though. A different town.

South Louisiana has too much depth to study in only one year. I've barely touched on the Creole history and culture, the co-dependent relationship between Louisiana and oil, how the state is literally drowning, Indian history, and some things I'll get into later. Also, I want to get more into canoeing and get better at dancing.

Anyway, this time next week I'll be back in South Louisiana, looking for a new place to live.

Caucasus Georgia: Trains

Kukushka, Borjomi, Caucasus Georgia

It was in Caucasus Georgia that I first slept on a train. If you think it might be cool to lie on a bed, being gently shaken, while looking at a full moon through the window as you pass by a dark landscape, you'd be right.

I present for you some scenes from Georgian trains.


Traveling from Zugdidi to Tbilisi:

Correction for above - hey, that's not a scene from a train, it's a scene from a marshrutka. But what the hey, it shows off Georgian countryside and has a pretty song in the background. My companions and I did take a train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi (and then a marshrutka to the legendary Svaneti), and it was even an overnight train, but where the visual evidence of that might be? Somewhere in the archives. I'll hunt for it another day.


From Borjomi to Bakuriani on the kukushka:

Another leg of the Borjomi to Bakuriani trip, including whistle and bridge crossing:

My friend, Sandy, and I took the overnight train between Batumi and Tbilisi one weekend:

Train from Batumi to Tbilisi, Caucasus Georgia

Remembrance of Last Easter: Rustavi, Georgia, With Friends

Last year I celebrated Orthodox Easter with my host family, my TLG colleague, and my Missouri friends. It was a very special day. Today is Orthodox Easter, and I repost last year's experience with warm memories.

After weeks of meager food choices and fasting, Nely and family were ready for the Easter feast! And so were Kate and Pam, my friends visiting from the U.S., and Sandy, my TLG colleague. And me, too. 

It was a joyful day.

Tatia helped set the supra table.

Rustavi, Georgia. Setting the Easter supra table.

Many delectables appeared: tolma (cabbage-wrapped meat and rice), cheese, jonjoli, bread, mchadi (corn bread), pork liver salad, lamb stew, fried chicken, spinach salad, hadzhe sauce (made with walnut oil), quemali sauce (made from an astringent fruit), tomatoes, salad greens, cucumbers, and green onions.

Eggplant and red peppers with walnut sauce. Khachapuri.

Nely, Ketino, Eka, and Eka's mother all contributed to the supra's culinary chorus.

And I haven't even mentioned the wines and chacha, all made by Irakli from his own grapes in Kardanakhi.

Then the best part came. Nely's son, Paata, and his family sang. Both his and wife Eka's sons have superb voices - they filled the room; it reverberated. Paata's and Eka's young daughter, Baya, also has a fine voice.

I wish I had a sample of both of Paata's and Eka's sons singing. Below is a traditional Georgian song, Kargi Gogo (Good Girl), sung by son Irakli, with accompaniment from Eka and daughter Baya:

Kate said the singing wanted to make her put her head on the table and weep.

It was a special day.

Teach and Learn in Georgia: Back in Business

A supra in Kardanakhi, Georgia

 
After a hiatus during "regime change," Teach and Learn in Georgia (TLG) is back in business.

Tamar making borshi

Go here for a list of (or links to) blogs by current and past TLGers, packing items, and cultural notes.

Nely holding up her farmlet's green grapes, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Go here for the official TLG page.

Making churchkhela, Georgia

On my right sidebar is a link to a current TLGer - one who started under the old regime and continued under the new, so he may have a unique perspective to offer you.

Tia serving Kinkhali in Rustavi, Georgia

My second favorite Georgian dance video:

And my favorite, Xorumi or Khorumi, performed by Erisioni. Doesn't matter which gender you are, it gets the blood a-movin'.

 


 Ah, what a place.

Georgia: Traditional Dance: Racha

Racha, Georgia

As part of a Dance Friday series, here's the first of the regional dance videos from Caucasus Georgia - from the region of Racha.

I defy you to watch this video without smiling.

I think the dance from Racha is my favorite of the traditional Georgian dances. It's so vigorous, and the women's role is as interesting as the men's. 

And here's a reprise of my trip to Racha.

To read about a year in Georgia from its start, go here.  

Nothing There Tour #2: Gardabani, Part 2: Men in Black

This is part 2 of a long-overdue There's Nothing There Tour report. I was in Gardabani in spring 2012. Part 1 is here. 

Men in black and blue, Gardabani, Georgia

Seeing Georgians in black was nothing new, especially in the winter, when it's the preferred color of dress for both men and women.

But on this Novrus Bayrami celebration in Gardabani, it was so concentrated among the men and boys as to be remarkable.

There was live music, with a cool mix of traditional pop-ballad and hiphop.

I listened to the music, then continued to wander among the booths.

I maintained periodic phone contact with TLG colleague, Lauren, who was en route with Eva and Monica to join me in Gardabani for the festival.

Traditional cookware, Gardabani, Georgia

At various booths where I stopped, I enjoyed a bit of wine or chacha, so I began to have a pleasant little buzz.

The Simpsons in Gardabani, Georgia

At a certain point, I had to find a toilet. The city hall was next door to the park, and I was directed to the public loo inside the building. Yes, incredibly, this was it:

City hall toilet, Gardabani, Georgia

People! It does not require much effort or money to clean a toilet! And this is for your constituents! Have some respect. Jeez. It was almost as bad as the toilet situation I encountered in Ethiopia, between Harar and Nazret, only that latrine hellhole was darker and wetter.

Getting back to the festival .... the official musical line-up ended, and now the boys put on an impromptu dance showdown.

Now, look at this first video. It's only 27 seconds long. I want you to note the tall guy in the back. He's wearing a stocking cap with FBI on the front. His name is Romeo, but I didn't find that out til later. Foreshadowing.

  
Now look at this video, where the boys really get into the competitive spirit.

It was so fun watching the guys dance.

And then the festival was over for real, and my colleagues were almost at the park, but not quite. I felt disappointed they missed the festival, but .....

I found myself talking to an Azeri-Georgian gentleman with the help of an Azeri visitor who spoke English. Young Romeo appeared, as well, listening to the conversation. 

The Azeri-Georgian man, perhaps in his 60s, was inviting me to come to his house ..... and then my colleagues arrived.


To be continued ....

Nothing There Tour #2: Gardabani, Part 1: Town of Surprises

Gardabani, Georgia. Dancers waiting.

Sadly, my experiences in Gardabani, Georgia, in spring 2012 are only now being brought to life in the written form. I smile every time I think of Gardabani.

In Nothing There Tour #1, I told you about Vakhtangisi, which is on the Georgia-Azerbaijan border. In that report, I explained how Georgians wondered why anyone would go to Gardabani because "therrre's nothing therrrre!"

Now I've gone twice to Gardabani!

Some highlights:

• Something called "kubdari," which is a tasty meat pie - a small pizza with a lid, say
• A surprise supra with strangers
• A good white wine made by an Azeri-Georgian
• Men in black
• Georgian rap
• Filthy WC
• Chickens having sex
• Horses running down the street

What do you mean nothing is there?!  

Gardabani, Georgia. Restaurant door.

The first time

The first time I went to Gardabani was with Sandy; we stopped on our way back from Vakhtangisi. Had lunch at the restaurant next to the Orthodox church. Like so many Georgian restaurants, it had a fine door.

Georgian servers are also skilled at upselling their products, and we ended up with far too much food on the table. In addition to a tomato-cucumber-parsley-onion salad, we had a khachapuri and kubdari, a sort of meat pizza pie. Delicious. Most of the stuff we carried out with us to take back home to Rustavi. 

A Georgian restaurant tradition I like is the prevalence of "kupays"in most places. They are private rooms or alcoves. They let you escape from the noise and smoke of the larger dining room.

Another Georgian custom I like is that when there's live music, the band plays one song, then takes a break instead of the one-hour or half-hour sets in the U.S. One song, then break. The Georgian way is the perfect win - you can listen to the music, dance, and also talk to your companions throughout the evening.

When we emerged from the restaurant, we walked across the main drag to find a marshrutka. In the yard of some official building, we saw chickens engaged in digging a hole in the ground. Or maybe just laying eggs in an existing hole. Kind of interesting, what those hens were doing getting in and out of that hole in the ground. Then we saw the rooster come over and, well ... it was over very quickly.

We caught a marshrutka and returned to Rustavi with our culinary riches.

The second time - Bayrami!

Before we left Vakhtangisi, we learned from the English teacher, Nata, that there'd be a large Bayrami celebration in Gardabani the following week. Sandy couldn't go, but I was happy to be able to make it. I also let other TLGers know about it.

On an April Thursday mid-day, I got into Marshrutka #13 at the Old Bazaar in Old Rustavi and began the short trip to Gardabani. When we began, there were only an elderly woman and man on board, plus me. As we neared Gardabani, however, clutches of young girls boarded, giggling as girls do. Soon, the marshrutka was packed with tween girls. Some boys got on. Some men and women. By the time we rolled into Gardabani proper, the marshrutka was so tightly packed with humanity, individual bodies coalesced into one organ with multiple appendages that had limited range of movement.


The event was held in a park next to Gardabani's city hall ("meria"). There was a large stage for bands and dancers. Representatives from nearby villages had set up feast tables to show off their food and drink. (Though most Azeri-Georgians are Muslim, not all follow the proscription against alcohol consumption.)

Gardabani, Georgia

I saw several Bayrami maidens, bedecked with flowery headdresses, carrying the traditional fruit and new grass, to the village tables. Sometimes a band of music men accompanied them.

Men boiled khinkali.

Gardabani, Georgia

Politicos visited. 

Men gave speeches.

  

Men ate.
 

Gardabani, Georgia

Gardabani, Georgia

Tea was made.

Gardabani, Georgia

I saw the director of Nata's Vakhtangisi school - that village was represented today also. I was invited to partake of its table's contents, including wine. All delicious.

There was music on the large stage - dances and concerts!

To be continued ...