San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, New Mexico

Queen, knights, and bishop. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

Here's the story:

The Latino settlers of Tularosa and the Apache in nearby Mescalero land had skirmished for years. It came to a head in 1868, on Round Hill, when the Tularosans and a contingent of U.S. soldiers engaged in a brief battle with the Apache. The Tularosans prayed that if they won the battle, they'd build a church in St. Francis' honor and commemorate him every year in thanks for his intercession. 

San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

The Tularosans did win the battle with the Apache and they did build the church, and thus has been celebrated every year the San Francis de Paula Fiesta. And also, the Apache and the Tularosa settlers pretty much got along fine ever after.

Like so many rituals in New Mexico, the layers of culture are many and rich, as demonstrated in the fiesta's music, dance, clothing, language, food, and rites.

In this one small fiesta in this one small town, were present:

• Bishop
• Queen and her court
• Knights (of Columbus)O
• Priest from Peru
• Bilingual Mass in a church that honors North American and European saints
• Indian-Mexican-American religious dance traditions through the matachines and danzantes
• Mexican-American folklorico dance tradition
• La Marinera, a Peruvian dance with indigenous Peruvian, African, and Spanish roots
• Belly dancing
• Hip hop dancing
• Line dancing
• Navajo tacos, hamburgers, enchiladas

Tepeyac Danzante from Hatch. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

In my opinion, a sustainable culture is one that keeps the traditional arts alive while continuing to create new expressions of its culture, based on contemporary realities of life. Which is one reason why I appreciated so much the variety of local talent showcased in Sunday afternoon's entertainment.

Note: The danzante and matachine dancers at the fiesta represented a recent revolution: women among the ranks. Both of these religious-dance practices, in the past - and still almost exclusively today - men only.

Folklorico dancers from Hondo. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

St. Francis observed all of it:

St. Francis observes. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

 One of my favorite moments - the new church priest, from Peru, dancing the La Marinera:

I also loved how many of the fiesta attendees joined one of the line dances. Notice the fiesta queen in white capris and peach top. One of the fiesta organizers, in black shorts and white/black t-shirt, used her force of personality to get people to join in - wonderful! I saw her give a particular someone a look that would be understood in any language: By God, you'd better get your ass out here and dance or I'm going to kick it into next week when this is over.

A great fiesta!

A slideshow:

 #30

New Mexico: Aztec Ruins

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

The Aztec Ruins, outside of Aztec, New Mexico, have nothing to do with actual Aztecs other than a mistaken assumption at the time of the ruins' discovery that there was a connection.

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

 On the other hand, the Aztec dancers in the U.S. Southwest do have an intentional connection with the Aztecs of Mexico.

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

I'm not much into ruins. Even at Macchu Picchu, I don't recall the ruins so much as the Jurassic quality of the forest below the ruins. Now, that was memorable. From my travel journal:

... the scenery was beyond description. The mountains go on forever, huddled together like so many jostling shoulders. Some of the highest mountains were capped with halos of white clouds and mist. All are covered with greenery, even up to the tops.   Much of the mountains are just plain rock and are covered with a mossy plant. As the day went on, the mist crept lower and lower until it looked like a prehistoric scene; very eerie and beautiful. 

About the Macchu Picchu ruins themselves, I said perfunctorily, "they are very interesting."

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

So when I say the Aztec Ruins impressed me, that's saying something. The ruins themselves ... shrug. But there's a quality about the location that speaks somehow.   

I especially felt taken with the reconstructed community kiva. Not the outside of it. In fact, I just realized I didn't even take a photo of it. It looks a little too new for my taste in archeaological remains. (I like my ancient buildings to look old, thank you very much.)

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

No, the inside, with its circles and rectangles and light and stairs (new) and shadows create a solemn and restful space.

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

I was not even put off by the recorded Navajo prayer-song that you can listen to when you push the appropriate button. The song choice, the quietness of it, both in audability and musicality, was right.

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

 

Aztec Ruins, Aztec, New Mexico

Oh, The Pre-First Solo Trip

1985. Ecuador.

I studied in Ecuador and Peru the summer of 1985. I made a few forays out on my own. An excerpt from my trip journal on one such journey:

Wednesday, Aug 7

…. Writing in a bus again, this time to go to the ruins near Cuenca called Inga Pirca.

… arrived in Cuenca after 5:00 this morning from Macas. The trip went fast and on the bus we had: a meowing cat in a bag, squeaking guinea pigs in a sak, a squawking chicken riding on top, the ubiquitous lumpy white sacks in the aisle, and we plowed through the night to the strains of Michael Jackson’s Thriller.  …

I’m not sure where or what I’m going to do after going to Inga Pirca. I might spend the night in Cuenca, or I might just hop a bus again to Riobamba. At some point I need to take a shower, though, and wash my hair. I also need desperately to get to a casa de cambio to change some money.

Later – I am in a hotel room in a small town called Canar. It is a hole; but at least it’s a bed that looks fairly clean. The bathroom, if you can call it that, is the pits. I don’t know how I’m going to take a shower and/or wash my hair. Actually, a shower is impossible, as there is no shower.

Inga Pirca. Photo courtesy of Cayambe

Anyway, I went to the town of Tambo, where I was then to catch a camioneta to the ruins. After some waiting around, I finally got up to the ruins by way of a truck with a tall and deep wooden bed. It was like climbing onto a very tall horse to get in. The ride was spectacular – a 9 km bounce up the mountain. I loved it. The ruins were very interesting – an old castle built by the supposed last Incan. Not as extensive (quite small) or as meticulously constructed as Macchu Picchu, but very picturesque. What really attracted me were the people and the scenery. My gosh, the people were so friendly … While waiting in a nearby village, 2 boys raced up the road on their horses, laughing and urging the animals on. It was great. In Tambo, before I left for the ruins, 4 little girls attached themselves to me and we had an exciting little conversation. They were so shy and giggly. One of the questions they asked was whether I had a kitchen.

I think Tambo and the ruins with its bordering village is probably the best place I’ve been in Ecuador. I’m so glad I decided to go!

At about 4:00 or so, the camioneta returned to pick up passengers and I was among a group of schoolchildren who had spent the day there. They shared candy with me, and on the way back, they sang songs on the truck. It was so bitter cold with the wind whipping and the mist covering chill above us – but how exhilarating and enjoyable the ride was!

On the way, we picked up another gringo – a guy from England. It turned out we were in similar circumstances – short on cash – and we hitchhiked to Canar. It was raining a little, and we had walked at least halfway, when a small camioneta picked us up …

The bank in Canar was closed, so the British guy (still don’t know his name) showed me his hotel and offered to lend me the money til we get to Banos. He said there’s definitely a place to change money there. So he’s given me 500 sucres til tomorrow. The hotel room I’m in costs 150 sucres. Cheapest so far – all the way around....

 

A note about Riobamba - my host family "mother" was originally from Riobamba. My host family "father" said that everyone in Ecuador joked about people from Riobamba. I wonder if that's still true.