Tularosa, New Mexico: Shade Trees and Roses

Tularosa, New Mexico

Whereas there's no doubt Alamogordo is in the high desert, just 13 miles away is shady, tree-lined Tularosa.

Tularosa, New Mexico

I'm told that Alamogordo would be just as oasis-like as Tularosa, but for the fact it did away with its acequia system long ago, while Tularosa still has (some of) its system.

True or false or more complicated? Don't know.

Tularosa, New Mexico

If you swing through Tularosa on Highways 54 and 70 without stopping, you see a promise of its seductions - like a bit of ankle showing in Victorian English times - when you pass by San Francis de Paula's lush campus.

Tularosa, New Mexico

You wouldn't guess at the loveliness of the residential houses and yards behind the front lines of shops.











There's a trade-off. With the haven of mature trees, the nearby Sacramento Mountains recede into the background, whereas in Alamogordo they are as equal residents of the city.


A Tularosa slide show:

About the name, Tularosa. Its origin has nothing to do with roses, but the inhabitants have surrendered to the inevitable assumption and now calls itself the city of roses. Indeed, roses of all colors run promiscuously throughout the village.

An acquaintance of mine relocated here from Santa Fe for some very practical reasons: Tularosa shares some of the same charms as Santa Fe - traditional New Mexican architecture, proximity to mountains, and an arts community (albeit small) - while being far more economical to live because of lower real estate prices and energy costs. Being in southwestern New Mexico, Tularosa's winters are milder than in Santa Fe or Taos. I would add that one will find a much narrower income disparity amongst Tularosa residents than amongst Santa Fe or Taos residents.

San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, New Mexico

Queen, knights, and bishop. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

Here's the story:

The Latino settlers of Tularosa and the Apache in nearby Mescalero land had skirmished for years. It came to a head in 1868, on Round Hill, when the Tularosans and a contingent of U.S. soldiers engaged in a brief battle with the Apache. The Tularosans prayed that if they won the battle, they'd build a church in St. Francis' honor and commemorate him every year in thanks for his intercession. 

San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

The Tularosans did win the battle with the Apache and they did build the church, and thus has been celebrated every year the San Francis de Paula Fiesta. And also, the Apache and the Tularosa settlers pretty much got along fine ever after.

Like so many rituals in New Mexico, the layers of culture are many and rich, as demonstrated in the fiesta's music, dance, clothing, language, food, and rites.

In this one small fiesta in this one small town, were present:

• Bishop
• Queen and her court
• Knights (of Columbus)O
• Priest from Peru
• Bilingual Mass in a church that honors North American and European saints
• Indian-Mexican-American religious dance traditions through the matachines and danzantes
• Mexican-American folklorico dance tradition
• La Marinera, a Peruvian dance with indigenous Peruvian, African, and Spanish roots
• Belly dancing
• Hip hop dancing
• Line dancing
• Navajo tacos, hamburgers, enchiladas

Tepeyac Danzante from Hatch. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

In my opinion, a sustainable culture is one that keeps the traditional arts alive while continuing to create new expressions of its culture, based on contemporary realities of life. Which is one reason why I appreciated so much the variety of local talent showcased in Sunday afternoon's entertainment.

Note: The danzante and matachine dancers at the fiesta represented a recent revolution: women among the ranks. Both of these religious-dance practices, in the past - and still almost exclusively today - men only.

Folklorico dancers from Hondo. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

St. Francis observed all of it:

St. Francis observes. San Francis de Paula Fiesta, Tularosa, NM.

 One of my favorite moments - the new church priest, from Peru, dancing the La Marinera:

I also loved how many of the fiesta attendees joined one of the line dances. Notice the fiesta queen in white capris and peach top. One of the fiesta organizers, in black shorts and white/black t-shirt, used her force of personality to get people to join in - wonderful! I saw her give a particular someone a look that would be understood in any language: By God, you'd better get your ass out here and dance or I'm going to kick it into next week when this is over.

A great fiesta!

A slideshow:

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