Thursday, April 20, 2017

El Paso: Mammoth Dung

Mammoth dung, UTEP Centennial Museum, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


I felt right smug when I saw this dung display at UTEP's Centennial Museum. Imagine. An exhibit of poop.


Why, I've been collecting pictorial poop for years now.

Some unidentified effluvia here, outside the abandoned primate facility in Alamogordo, New Mexico.

I captured some fine excrement in Colorado here and here.

Have I told you yet about the jackalope poop I picked up in the cemetery on the far east side of El Paso?  No? Well, that's coming.

I have an epic story of poo here. It's my personal story of poo.

There's also a story of a geographic curiosity that looks like poop. 

Poop, vodka, and a jawbone in Mestia, Svaneti, Caucasus Georgia. May 2012.


I confess that the mammoth dung in the museum exhibit looks like fried chicken to me. 



Wednesday, April 19, 2017

El Paso: Privilege, Oppression, and ... Refreshments!


Brown bag seminar. UTEP, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


March 2017.


On the UTEP campus one day.

I loved this.

Even when saving the world, you've got to have a draw ... Cookies?

Reminds me of the dilemma I faced in Rodeo, New Mexico. Pie or salvation? Or both?



Tuesday, April 18, 2017

El Paso: The Life Force of Mare Advertencia Lirika


Mare Advertencia Lirika, Cafe Mayapan, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


South Louisiana introduced me to spoken word in a splashy way, via poets with a gift for visceral writing and performance talents.

Being an introverted sort, it knocked me out to see and hear how these artists put their naked selves out there with their creativity.


Mare Advertencia Lirika, Cafe Mayapan, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


When I saw an upcoming event for a free poetry workshop in El Paso, it was a must-go for me. The workshop title: Poetry and Resistance.

The workshop introduced to me Mare Advertencia Lirika, the workshop leader.

Because the workshop was mostly in Spanish, I didn't follow all of Mare's words - maybe most, even - but I followed enough to know I was in a room with a woman whose life force is galvanic.

Mare Advertencia Lirika, Cafe Mayapan, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


Mare lives in the city of Oaxaca in Oaxaca state, Mexico. Her family is Zapotec, an indigenous Mexican ethnic group. 

Below is a half-hour documentary about Mare, "When a Woman Comes Forward" (with English subtitles). Mare shares her philosophy about how hip hop gives a voice, not just to individuals, but to the community.


Mare is for speaking out. Her 2013 video (with English subtitles), "What Are You Waiting For (To Tell Your Truth)?"  is a call to action to all women:



"We are the majority only when it comes to statistics."

"Our voice has been taken by other mouths."


Mare is a hip hop artist, a poet, a singer, a human rights activist. In her work, she flashes an unblinking, brilliant light on inconsistencies between the so-called "respect" for women and oppressing them. One graphic illustration is how she notes the societal furtiveness with which girls and women experience menstruation and menstrual blood, but the cavalier display of the blood of murdered women.

Below is a video in which Mare shares the evolution of her creative and social activist evolution in Oaxaca:




Mare is a woman of power. I feel so lucky to have been able to attend her workshop.

With thanks to the folks who contributed to her presence, which included Fronterizas en Resistencia (Border Women in Resistence) and Café Mayapan.

Monday, April 17, 2017

El Paso: Easter 2017


Easter afternoon at a winery in (near) El Paso, Texas. April 2017.


For those who believe wine is holy water, then it makes sense to spend Easter afternoon at a local winery, yes?

Easter afternoon at a winery in (near) El Paso, Texas. April 2017. Musicians Yadira and Edgar, of April Ticket.


Which is what I did this year, accompanied by my literary cultural interpreter, Benjamin Alire Saenz, in the form of one of his books, Names on a Map.


Easter afternoon at a winery in (near) El Paso, Texas. April 2017.


I did it not for the wine, but to support the hostess of one of my El Paso meetup groups: Live Music. The hostess is Yadira, a lover of live music and a musician herself.

Yadira and her singing partner, Edgar, comprise the versatile, bi-lingual duo April Ticket.

Technically, I spent Easter in New Mexico and not El Paso, at Sombra Antigua Winery, but it was almost El Paso, so close enough.

Speaking of Easters, I think my most memorable was in Rustavi, Caucasus Georgia:


Georgian Easter, Part 1: Jonjoli
Georgian Easter, Part 2: Supra and Song
Georgian Easter, Part 3: Visiting the Dead



Sunday, April 16, 2017

El Paso: Spring in Sunset Heights


Sunset Heights, Prospect Street, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


On a soul-warming sunny day in March, I walked to downtown El Paso by way of Prospect Street in Sunset Heights.

On my left I heard the burbling water sounds of a fountain or waterfall, accompanied by the melody of one of my favorite birds, a mockingbird. Oh, what a small oasis tended by the owner of the sweet cottage! A minute of Spring below:



Creeping succulents shot pink and yellow flares to catch the attention of tiny, flying pollinators.

Sunset Heights, Prospect Street, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


Another cottage's reflective window captured the image of its neighbor across the street.

Sunset Heights, Prospect Street, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.


Gosh, El Paso is so pretty.

Sunset Heights, Prospect Street, El Paso, Texas. March 2017.

Saturday, April 15, 2017

El Paso: Duranguito #2: Renters



Flor de Luna, Duranguito, El Paso, Texas. January 2017.



Not long after the Duranguito posada, I went to a party.

I mentioned to one of my fellow party-goers that I'd been learning about the situation in Duranguito, and how long-time residents were being evicted to make room for the razing of the neighborhood and subsequent construction of a "multi-purpose performing arts and entertainment center."


Her instantaneous reaction: "They're renters!"

Which I interpreted to mean: "Why are renters concerned about relocating? Why be so concerned about renters?"

If I interpreted the woman's reaction correctly, I get it. I do.

I'm going to assume the woman doesn't look down on renters. I don't think that's what she meant.

My take, instead, is that the woman comes from a middle-class or higher socio-economic cohort. As such, she likely holds some pragmatic assumptions:
  1. A house you own is, at the end of the day, a commodity. You may love your house, but you're willing to sell it for something that suits you better. 
  2. If you happen to rent, you've got options. You've got a sustainable income, a decent credit rating, the means to move your household from the old place to the new place. You've likely chosen to rent instead of buying because you've crunched the numbers and it makes sense for you in your current location and time of life and the current real estate market, interest rates, etc. 
  3. If you know your neighbors, you may like them well enough, but there's a good chance you're not best buds. They won't keep you in the old neighborhood. 
  4. You don't need your neighbors to help with child care, take you to the doctor or the market, or socialize with outside your front doors or in the back gardens, lend you a few bucks til your next influx of money comes in, or share a utility or appliance with. 
  5. Once you become elderly, there'll be a support system available to you that you can pay for - a personal aide, perhaps, a weekly house cleaner, good health insurance.

If I'm correct about this woman's point of view, then I don't blame her - that's her experience in life thus far. I certainly didn't know how often renters were treated as second-class citizens until after I sold my house and became a renter.

I've observed a few things about being a renter.
  • Most landlords, property managers, and property owners do not view renters as customers. Instead, we seem to be children who are sure to cause problems. Not long ago, I heard a property manager in a Midwest state boast about how he deals with tenants who irritate him: "I harass them. I harass the SHIT out of them until they [leave or shut up.]"
  • There are a myriad rules for renters to follow, with very few rules for the landlords. 
  • Renters must submit all kinds of income and identification data to landlords, but landlords don't have to give prospective renters squat for references or identification. 
  • It's prohibitively expensive for a low-income renter to move a household. Consequently, when a landlord is deficient in maintenance, the renter just sucks it up. 
  • Low-income renters are sometimes late with their rent. Consequently, they are at the mercy of a landlord who is deficient in maintenance because they - again - don't want to rock the boat. 
  • Low-income renters often have marginal credit ratings, which reduces their options in the rental market. 
  • Municipalities may apply lower standards when inspecting lower-income housing - when there are any standards - so landlords in such areas get away with years of deferred maintenance and other property neglect, even to the point of creating dangerous living conditions for renting adults and children. 


Many of the renters in Duranguito are elderly. 

Some years back, I did some work related to the elderly, Medicare, and nursing homes. I learned something startling:
  • Most elderly people resist moving from a terrible nursing home - one jammed with a list of abuses, neglect, generally poor practices - to a better place, because the prospect of moving to the unknown is more stressful than staying with the known. Even when the unknown promises better care.
  • Many elderly are loath to complain about their care, no matter how bad it is, because they fear retaliation or they don't want things to get worse or they believe there is no solution to their predicament. 

Many of the renters in Duranguito have low incomes. 

I've noticed a few things about folks who live in poverty or on the edge of poverty.
  • You need your friends, family, and neighbors more than folks who have reliable, sustainable income. 
  • You create a grassroots mutual support network in your neighborhood, with which you can help each other out. 
  • Relationships are important.

So what does all this stuff have to do with Duranguito? 

If I live in Duranguito, there's a good chance I'm a renter. There's a good chance I don't have much income. There's a good chance I'm elderly. There's a good chance I know - and rely on - my neighbors to help meet a number of my quality-of-life needs.

So it's a big deal if I've got to move.

Where am I going to move? Who will my new neighbors be? Can I afford to move my stuff? Who will help me move? Will I find a place I can afford? Will it be close to a market?

Duranguito is home.



Friday, April 14, 2017

El Paso: Duranguito #1: The Posada


Father Rafael Garcia speaks at San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. December 2016.

December 2016

It was near Christmas and therefore time for posadas.

A posada is a Christmas tradition in which Catholic parishioners re-enact Mary and Joseph's attempts to find a room at the inn before Jesus is born. Details vary among local, regional, and national cultures. In the United States, posadas are most strongly connected to the Mexican-American community. More detailed story here.


Duranguito posada, El Paso, Texas. December 2016.



There are a number of posadas in El Paso before Christmas. I chose one. It happened to be the Duranguito posada.

Which is how I first learned of a struggle between Duranguito residents and business property owners, business developers, and the city of El Paso. The city intended to tear down much of the Duranguito neighborhood to build an arena. Many residents of Duranguito are elderly renters who had lived in Duranguito for many, many years. Some had already received eviction notices. A movement had begun to fight back against the destruction of Duranguito.


Duranguito posada, El Paso, Texas. December 2016.


The procession began at San Jacinto Plaza



and moved through the downtown plaza area ....



....  and toward the Duranguito neighborhood, sometimes called Union Plaza area. Its first stop was at long-time shopping mart, which was now - or would soon be - closed, because of the impending arena construction. 

Duranguito posada, El Paso, Texas. December 2016.


The posada went to its second stop, in front of a woman's home, where she'd lived for decades:




The posada culminated at The Rock House, a mixed-art venue that showcased visual and musical arts, and whose owners were among the opposition to demolish the neighborhood.





Below is a slide show of the Duranguito posada:


Duranguito, El Paso


History was unfolding.


Duranguito posada, El Paso, Texas. December 2016.







Thursday, April 13, 2017

El Paso: A Dead Day at the Library

Day of the Dead, Dorris van Doren Library, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


October 2016

The Dorris van Doren branch of the El Paso Library did up the Day of the Dead in right literary style, honoring authors who'd died in 2016 thus far.

There was also a whimsical art exhibit of ghoulish fashion dolls.

Ghoulish fashion doll art, Dorris van Doren Library, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.

Ghoulish fashion doll art, Dorris van Doren Library, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


Ghoulish fashion doll art, Dorris van Doren Library, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


Maya Angelou, one of my heroes, is in this library altar to the year's dead.

An excerpt from her poem, Woman Work: 

Shine on me, sunshine
Rain on me, rain
Fall softly, dewdrops
And cool my brow again.

Storm, blow me from here
With your fiercest wind
Let me float across the sky
'Til I can rest again.

Fall gently, snowflakes
Cover me with white
Cold icy kisses and
Let me rest tonight.

Sun, rain, curving sky
Mountain, oceans, leaf and stone
Star shine, moon glow
You're all that I can call my own.



You can listen to Ms. Angelou's lush voice reading this and another poem here.


Wednesday, April 12, 2017

El Paso: A Fire-Breathing Dragon


Fire-breathing dragon, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.



October 2016

A lot was going on this October evening in El Paso. Las Cafeteras. Chalk the Block. The moon. Those alligators.

Plus the fire-breathing dragon.

Fire-breathing dragon, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


El Paso is definitely a family city, and San Jacinto Plaza, which is just outside of sight of the dragon, draws moms and dads, kiddos, grandparents, aunts and uncles, and friends.

San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


A kiosk cafe in the plaza keeps busy most days and evenings. (But if you want coffee, walk a little further and get your fix at the Coffee Box.)

San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


Back at the dragon, there is a zen thing in waiting for that which may or may not come:



There is the fire:






Fire-breathing dragon, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


A very satisfying evening in El Paso.





Tuesday, April 11, 2017

El Paso: UTEP: An Ocotillo Day


Ocotillo in April, Chihuahuan Desert Gardens, UTEP, El Paso, Texas.



The stalky ocotillo may be my favorite desert plant. Seeing these April ocotillos at UTEP's Chihuahuan Desert Gardens was like seeing a cherished friend.


When dormant, the ocotillo is just a spiny, angular, unattractive reedy collection of gray stalks. But when it blooms and when it leafs out, oh, I admire how it preens so prettily against the sky.

Ocotillo in April, Chihuahuan Desert Gardens, UTEP, El Paso, Texas.


An ocotillo I crushed on at Leasburg Dam State Park in New Mexico a few years back:

Ocotillo at Leasburg Dam State Park, New Mexico. May 2013.

Ocotillo at Leasburg Dam State Park, New Mexico. May 2013.

Ocotillo at Leasburg Dam State Park, New Mexico. May 2013.

See that hummingbird up there?




Monday, April 10, 2017

El Paso: A Walk on the Agave Loop Trail


Agave Loop Trail, Franklin Mountains State Park, El Paso, Texas. April 2017.

A Sunday afternoon hike in April, guided by Dr. Gertrud Konings-Dudin, as she shared information about cactus in the Franklin Mountains:

Agave Loop Trail, Franklin Mountains State Park, El Paso, Texas. April 2017.

With her help, we saw quite a selection of cactus on this short trail, including:
  • Texas rainbow cactus
  • New Mexico rainbow cactus
  • Prickly pear
  • Barrel cactus
  • Early bloomer cactus
  • Bishop's cap (aka eagle's claw) cactus
  • Cat's claw cactus
Century plant, Agave Loop Trail, Franklin Mountains State Park, El Paso, Texas. April 2017.


We took a very steep route up to the trail zenith, which is also a paragliding base.

Agave Loop Trail, Franklin Mountains State Park, El Paso, Texas. April 2017.










Sunday, April 9, 2017

El Paso: Walking With the Moon


Full moon eve, Sunset Heights, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.



Sister cities, El Paso and Juarez, are favorite children of the moon, I think.


Full moon eve, Sunset Heights, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


The moon likes to rise up, I think, and just look quietly upon the millions who've made their homes in the middle of a desert, ringed by folded mountains.


Full moon eve, Sunset Heights, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


One October evening, the eve of a full moon, I walked downtown from my apartment in Sunset Heights.


Full moon eve, Sunset Heights, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


Often, I choose to walk downtown via Prospect. But on this evening, I chose Yandell.


Full moon eve, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


Did I talk to the moon as I made my way down? Probably not. But I was pleased she was there.

I stopped on an overpass to watch the traffic on Interstate 10.


Full moon eve, Interstate 10, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.

The many-lighted bridge across the way is Prospect Street, my usual route downtown.


Full moon eve, Interstate 10, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.




Saturday, April 8, 2017

El Paso: Mozart Requiem


Mozart Requiem, El Paso, Texas. April 2017.


The union of many voices or instruments to create a collaboration of sound is always so uplifting.

The El Paso Chorale and the El Paso Orchestra, showcasing four singers, performed Mozart Requiem in April on the Saturday before Palm Sunday.

Below is an excerpt, highlighting soprano Heather Dials, who begins singing at approximately 2:12:



El Paso has an impressive classical-music presence. There is, of course, the long-running, annual Chopin Festival. El Paso Pro-Musica promotes chamber music. UTEP has a music program with breadth and depth.


Mozart Requiem, El Paso, Texas. April 2017.



I had a superb seat at the Mozart performance.

Another excerpt below:




Friday, April 7, 2017

El Paso: Lurid Lagartos


Lagarto sculpture, San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


I'm afraid I'm not fond of the alligators in downtown El Paso. They lurk in the middle of the downtown plaza that some call the Plaza de los Lagartos (alligators) and some call San Jacinto Plaza. I prefer the latter name.


Lagarto sculpture, San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.


They remind me of the godawful "art" at the entrance to an amusement park in Tbilisi, atop Mtatsminda. I took some shit for decrying the grotesqueness of the "art,"  but I stand by my verdict.

Mtatsminda, Tbilisi, Caucasus Georgia.


There was a time when real, live alligators were kept at the Plaza, beginning in the late 1800s and ending in the 1960s. There's even a Louisiana connection, with the arrival of "Jack and Jill, a pair who arrived in a cigar box from Louisiana."


Lagarto sculpture, San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.



The fact was, however, that the alligators suffered regular indignities, not to mention cruelties and even death, at the hands of visitors.


Lagarto sculpture, San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.



Here's a photo of a vintage El Paso postcard, showing the live alligators in the plaza:

Postcard of live alligators in San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. Postcard photographed by Red Oak Kid.



Lagarto sculpture, San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.

Maybe I wouldn't find the durn things so objectionable if the colored lights didn't shout so loudly.


Lagarto sculpture, San Jacinto Plaza, El Paso, Texas. October 2016.