Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Dubai: Plane, Metro, Walk, Flat, and Crash

My Dubai flat
 Arrived in Dubai yesterday afternoon via Azerbaijan Airlines.

Being up all night had caught up with me, and I was kind of stupid with drowsiness.

Waited in line to go through UAE customs. Some people had to go stand in line for retinal scans first. Because I have a U.S. passport, I didn't have to do that. (Yet.)

( I hate that whole idea of retinal and other such scans that ultimately allow for greater control of individual human beings and our movements and liberties. And I really dislike how so many folks enthusiastically endorse such things, rationalizing that if we have nothing to hide, then we shouldn't be bothered about it. These are often the same folks who despise so-called government intrusion in our financial lives and who revere corporate liberty.)

Changed money after fumbling around for my debit card. Where the hell did I stash it? I referred again, mentally, to my notes about being too smart for my own good: Security should be effective, but not complicated. It's supposed to protect my stuff from others, not from myself.

My Dubai flat

Found the metro. Bought a reloadable pass card, got myself pointed in the right direction and got on to the correct car. In Dubai, there is a car designated for women and children only, which you can use or not as you wish. I chose to sit on the women's car.

I got off the "red line" train at Union Station, and moved over to the "green line" and then got off at the Palm Deira station. From there I walked on Al Khaleej Street in search of my lodging host's landmarks of Pizza Hut and a phone company. I was to turn down a side street named Sikka. Which I did, but it was the incorrect Sikka, and a local man escorted me to the correct Sikka (21 Sikka versus 9 Sikka). (Reminded me of Playa del Carmen's street-naming system that confused me at first.)

My Dubai flat

Presently, I entered the correct building, went up the elevator and there I was. The flat I'm renting is petite. If "cozy" in real estate terms means small, "petite" means extra tiny. The room is about 10'x12', with an adjoining bathroom with shower. This *is* the flat. No interesting view. But it has what I need: Bed, counter space for laptop work, a kitchenette of sorts with a microwave, toaster, fridge, rice cooker, some plates and utensils, and a shelf (calling it a "counter" would be a bit too grand) for preparing one's meals. The bed is a twin size, covered simply with a flat sheet and a duvet, both white. There's a side chair and an upholstered chair that I think unfolds to another twin bed. A television mounted on the wall.

My Dubai flat

Yura owns this flat, but he has another place on a higher floor. Originally from Turkey, he's into computer programming, and has lived various places in the world, including Georgia (in fact, he loves Georgia). He's been in Dubai for several years.

I found Yura's place via airbnb.com - a great resource for affordable lodging in travel destinations. Yura's flat is $39 per night - a boon for budget travelers like me.

My Dubai flat


I could only book Yura's place for three nights, so I'll have to find new digs for my last two nights.

But for now .... I'm dead. Time to crash.


Monday, January 16, 2012

To Dubai: Baku Airport

Heydar Aliyev Airport cat, Baku, Azerbaijan
 
The Heydar Aliyev Airport in Baku, Azerbaijan. This is where I spent six hours of my life today.

It doesn't take much to entertain me, and I felt quietly adventurous when I found myself culled from the transit herd after we debarked from the Tbilisi flight in Baku, and was the recipient of that carefully noncommittal phrase, "have a seat, please" which can be the precursor for anything from a few moments of mundane delay to a full-blown, meltdown-worthy travel crisis.

I learned in Ethiopia that the best course is usually to relax and let the local processes unwind as they need to do. So while a gentleman carried my passport and boarding pass hither and thither, I pulled out one of my classic sci-fi paperbacks and read. I had six hours to kill, and this was as good a way to do it as any other.

In due course, I was escorted upstairs, pushed through a security check, then squirted out into the international gate area.

A curious place. Several duty-free shops and kiosks, one open cafe-bar, but other than that, mostly wide and empty corridors. A smallish lobby for travelers; not many chairs. Some travelers consumed more than their share of the limited seating by stretching out and sleeping.

A paucity of electrical outlets.

No means to exchange money. I was given to understand by the somewhat sullen cafe guy that he only took AZN, the Azerbaijan currency. I checked with the duty-free shop; confirmed there was no place to change money. This seemed to be borne out by the fact that no one in the waiting area was eating or drinking anything. Found out hours later that the cafe guy does, indeed, take USD for purchases. I got something to drink, at least. And lesson finally learned (hopefully): Pack some sort of munchie for these plane trips with long layovers - never know what, if anything, will be accessible to me, plus saves money.

I found an electric outlet in the wall in one of the corridors, outside a store. Nothing to do but to plop myself down on the floor and plug in my laptop. The airport does have free public wifi.

And then I saw a cat.

Heydar Aliyev Airport cat, Baku, Azerbaijan


Friendly, too. He cuddled right next to me on the floor and took a nap.

And then I made friends with a 16-year old girl from Kazakhstan. She's been studying English for two years, and I was her first chance to talk with a native speaker. She's going to Dubai for a shopping trip with her mother and aunt. We talked about terrorists in Kazakhstan, school, Kazakh food, and making it big in Hollywood. She introduced me to her mom and her aunt.

Ran into a Texan couple who work in Baku, one for the embassy and one as an English instructor. They've been in Azerbaijan for two years and like it there.

Eventually, our waiting room time ended and it was time to go. The in-flight movie looked like it was a 1960s Hollywood Western, the colors kind of faded, set in a mountainous, steppe-y sort of place with horses and the like, only it was Azerbaijani. Cool.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Travel Turnaround: On to Dubai

I landed back in Georgia Saturday morning early in the ay em.

Reconnected with my warm host family.

Had two big sleeps.

Confirm flight to Dubai late tonight. Check.

Arrange for transportation to airport. Check.

Confirm lodging including a back-up plan in case my Dubai host and I miss each other. Check. (BTW - Lodging arranged via airbnb.)

Read up on downloaded copy of Lonely Planet guide to Dubai. Check.

Drink friendly shot of chacha to ring in the 2nd day of the Old New Year. Check.

Bite into a third dried persimmon before remembering what the possible consequences might be a few hours hence, just before taking a plane trip. Oh, shit. .... Exactly. Check.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Back to Georgia: Packing Again 2

Yesterday, I weighed the children's books.

Today I realized, most aren't going to make it. Too much weight.

They'll find new homes just as good.

Packing is brutal.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Back to Georgia: Packing Again

Today is Tuesday. Leaving for Rustavi, Georgia, on Thursday. 

The suitcases are laid open. I've started filling them.

The children's books I'm taking with me weigh 25 pounds. A quarter of my checked-luggage allotment. I've got home-made canned goods to bring back to Georgia to show those folks what's what, and those damn pickles are heavy!

Too soon to tell if I'm going to have to edit my packing list.

New things I'm bringing:
  • Two sets of long underwear (which will bring me to three pairs to counter Georgia's winter)
  • Small coffee thermos for long marshrutka rides to fun places
  • Scarves
  • Rain poncho
  • Walking poles
  • Gloves
  • Tennis shoes
  • More comfortable flats than what I took in July
  • Ziploc bags (quart size)
  • Ibuprofen, acetominaphen, aspirin
  • Two new pairs of trousers
  • Ziploc plastic containers for in-country travel and for bringing lunch from home to work

I left one of my suitcases in Georgia, so for my return, I bought a second-hand one for $6 at the local donation-type store.

My goal is always to be pretty much ready a day in advance of my trip. But usually I'm stressing myself out with last-minute things on the final day. Maybe this time will be different.



Thursday, January 5, 2012

Louisiana Road Trip 2011, Part 11: Going Home B

The last day. It's a cliche, but it's true: Time flies.

My vacation from Teach and Learn with Georgia has also flown by; I leave for Rustavi on the 12th.

On January 17, I'll learn if I will be a 2012 member of Teach for America.


Getting started

On Highway 1 in Mississippi, I listened to some rousing morning gospel music on the radio:




Missed turn

Whoops, missed my turn back onto Highway 1 from a Highway 49 leg. So I ended up taking the l-o-n-g way to Jonesboro, Arkansas.

On the bright side, if I'd turned when I supposed to, I would have missed seeing thousands of birds:




And this old-fashioned hellfire and brimstone tract carried by an Arkansas service station:

 


Or this really bizarre situation:


When I first drove by and saw this in my peripheral vision, I thought it was a hawk somehow snagged in a tree when it swooped for a kill. I turned around and came back for a closer look. Not much left except the beaks and wings of a duck.

So concludes my Louisiana Road Trip.  

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Louisiana Road Trip 2011, Part 10: Going Home A



Cottage in Arnaudville. The one on the right.


Piddled around this morning, but made steady progress toward my departure from the cottage. Finally took off just before noon.

Highways 77 and 10, Louisiana


I wanted to retrace some of my route that I'd taken down because it was so pretty. The green, green fields. The marshy waters in people's front yards, with herons. Between Fordoche and Morganza.




I entered new territory when I took a left onto Highway 1 instead of right. By doing this, I forfeited my second view of the beautiful Audubon bridge, but I was drawn by new lands.

Highway 15, Louisiana

I found myself driving along a levee, moving from Hwy 1 to Hwy 15. It's a damned good thing I gassed up in Morganza before I got onto 15. It was a l-o-n-g way between gas stations.  I drove aside a levee and a series of locks, dams and hydroelectric projects (or something) the entire way. The Old River Control Complex. Some interesting sites about same, most with cool pictures: 

Credit: USACE per Urban Decay


Credit: USACE

America's Achilles' heel: the Mississippi River's Old River Control Structure

Morganza Spillway/Floodway and Old River Control Structure

Where Does the Water Go? The Old River Control Structures, Louisiana  (Interesting, this article is from Urban Decay, which I stumbled upon earlier in my trip re: Margaret's Grocery in Vicksburg. I see he has a recent article on Tallulah, LA, a town I also found intriguing. Maybe I should see about linking him to the sad but beautiful disintegration of Old Rustavi.) 

I saw large white birds with black-tipped wings taking in the waters at the auxiliary structure. High fencing, barbed wire, big padlocks, and what looked like a thick electric-shock cable prevented me from getting a closer look. But I was able to use the office lavatory. Someone had written a sign inside the ladies' room: "If you can't clean up after yourself, then use the woods." Reminds me of a motel room in Memphis, Missouri, that had this sign in every bathroom: "Don't clean game in the sink."

Anyhoo, after an in-car lunch of hard-boiled eggs and a satsuma orange, I proceeded along my way.


Things I saw on the way
  • Logging trucks
  • Three dead hawks roadside
  • Men collecting pecans (evidently a bumper crop this year)
Louisiana - Log yard

Tallulah, Louisiana

On Highway 65, I drove through Tallulah. Two things I noticed right off. A very pretty, wide bayou rolling through town. In the middle of the bayou, for awhile along its length, were wire Christmas trees with lights. I'd love to see those at night reflecting on the water. The other thing I noticed were the lightpost banners marking Black History Month. They were a striking design: red, black, and white with a drawing of Martin Luther King, Jr.  I wish I remembered what the poster said exactly, because whatever it said gave me the impression of a town that really celebrated the month in a wholeheartedly, appreciative way. Whether or not that's the reality, who knows?

Lake Providence, Louisiana

Lake Providence is another pretty town in Louisiana. Highway 65 (just north of Translyvania.) I liked the fishing huts, piers, and later, houses, that jutted out over the water.  Another place I'd like to revisit some day.


Back in Greenville, MS

I made it to Greenville, Missisippi for the night. Stayed at a Days' Inn that had a surprisingly nice room. Newly remodeled. Decent bed, nice looking furniture, new TV. Fridge. Free wifi. Alas, no microwave. Very clean. Only $60, including tax.



Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Louisiana Road Trip 2011, Part 9: Tabasco and More Ned

St. Martin of Tours Church, St. Martinville, LA


Tabasco

The Tabasco company is on Avery Island, about an hour and a half from Arnaudville. Avery Island is made of salt. Not kidding. (And even though some people recoil from same as if it were meth, I like it, with no apologies.) I drove down for the factory tour.



The tour is very short: A brief, but interesting, lecture by an enthusiastic speaker, a 10-minute video advertisement documentary about Tabasco, and a short, self-guided walk down the glassed hallway, where you look at bottling happening. Today, the sauce was being bottled for shipment to France.  Each of us received three teensy bottles of Tabasco sauce in different flavors.

The intended climax of the tour was the visit at the "country store," where you could taste Tabasco products, including its pepper ice cream. And then buy stuff.  I did buy some hot&sweet pickles and jalapeno jelly. Best of the Tabasco sauces: Chipotle.

I think I'm glad I did the tour. And if I'm not glad I did it, I'm glad I prevented the need for me to do it in the future. So it's a win-win.


St. Martinville




Headed up north again. This time, I dawdled in St. Martinville's town square. Very pretty church, St. Martin of Tours Catholic Church.

St. Martin of Tours Catholic Church, St. Martinville, LA

Out back, there is the famous Evangeline statue. Note her shoes. The Acadians (cajuns) used these wooden shoes on their homesteads along the bayous. They adopted them from the Dutch way back when their ancestors learned how to protect farmlands from the sea.


Evangeline, St. Martinville, Louisiana



Light and bright, as churches go.

















I especially liked the pew gates.





There was also a spiral staircase up to a pulpit. And a couple of saints new to me. (Which I see, now, since I cannot identify them, I need to get into the habit of photographing such housekeeping details  - or writing them down immediately - because I will forget them before the day is out. I will add this to my road trip guide.)
 


I was at the church at noon, so I heard the bells.



Outside, angels flew.



Ned, again

I hadn't heard anything about Ned the lost dog yet, and I was curious. I had to pass through Breaux Bridge on my way back to Arnaudville, so I stopped in at the music guy's place to see if I could get some news. The music guy was in his shop, painting.

"Oh yeah," he said, "We stayed here in the shop til 11:00 last night waiting to hear back from the owners, but we never did, so we figured out where they lived [via reverse phone lookup] and just took him over there and left him in the [fenced] yard."

I nodded my head, listening.

".... and you know what? Ol' Ned showed up back here the next morning."

"You're kidding?!"

"Oh, yeah. So I took him on back to his house. The owners still weren't there, but some neighbors were, and they saw him, and they said, 'well, hey, there's ol' Ned.'"

I think probably Ned has more up his sleeve for the future, and I hope to hear about it.
 
So who was this nice guy at the music store, anyway? When we parted, I went to shake his hand, and he said, "We don't shake hands around here, we give hugs." And so we did. I learned he plays in the Steve Riley and Mamou Playboys band. His name is Brazos Huval.

They've been nominated for a "regional roots" Grammy for their album, Grand Isle.  Here's the band performing an NPR tiny desk concert: 




Poche's

Time for a late lunch. Stopped at Poche's specialty meats and cafe. Poche's is just down the road from Glenda's Creole Kitchen, which so far had served me up the best meal of this road trip. Both Glenda's and Poche's are between Breaux Bridge and Arnaudville, on Highway 31.

I was torn between trying the crawfish etoufee and the smothered rabbit, but went with the etoufee. Some people, upon taking the first bite, might exclaim: "Holy Christ on a stick, that's #%^#@! good!" I would not say such a thing because it would be crass, so let me just say that it was mighty flavorful. As was the sweet coleslaw and the potato salad.

Today's plate lunches at Poche's


Do you see why road trips are so much fun?




Monday, January 2, 2012

Louisiana Road Trip 2011, Part 8: Bayous, Grilled Gator, and Ned


Ned the Lost Dog, Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

Swamp tour

Lake Martin, a few miles outside Breaux Bridge. Fishing boat (seats 10), outboard motor, can maneuver in water only a foot deep. Knowledgeable guide. Didn't see any gators (too cold, likely), but saw: Beaver, turtles, egrets, cormorants, ibises, herons, duck decoys, and duck hunters. It was pretty cold out, especially with wind, so I was glad I'd brought my coat.

My video plays faster than it felt when we trolled along in the boat.



In this video, an egret flies.




I find bayous and swamps more interesting and beautiful than the ocean. The bayou beach is a problem, of course. Skeeters and gators not conducive to laying out in the sun. 


Road trip laundry

A week's gone by, so that means laundry needed to be done. Where are all of the laundromats? Have they gone the way of telephone booths? None in Arnaudville or Breaux Bridge, apparently.  Found one in Lafayette. Passed the wash cycle by talking on the phone with folks back home. Threw the clothes in the dryer and took a walk in the neighborhood, drawn into same by a gigantic wall of bamboo between the laundromat and a house's backyard. I walked around the wall and turned the corner onto St. Charles, a sweet little street.


St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana
Add caption
It introduced me to the concept of a speed "lump." Never heard of such a thing.
















I liked the architectural diversity on this street.

St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana

St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana

St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana

St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana

St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana

There were flowers, too.

St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana

St. Charles Street, Lafayette, Louisiana


In no time, my clothes were dry, and I headed back to Breaux Bridge to look around. On my way out of Lafayette, I spied the Holy Trinity Institute, a building in the act of disintegration.


Holy Trinity Institute, Lafayette, Louisiana


Breaux Bridge and Ned the lost dog


Parked the car across the street from the unfortunately-defunct Fly Coffeehouse and walked down the main downtown drag.

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

Saw a bunch of cars parked in a parking lot, so I investigated that in case something was going on that I wanted to be part of. Nothing interesting. Saw a dog. Walked down to the bayou and looked at the water. Contemplated the plastic pink flamingos arranged along its bank. Started walking back to the main street. The dog walked purposefully to me and looked up at my face, making eye contact. One blue eye; one brown eye. I felt a little skittish, having learned to be wary of Georgian dogs (at least three TLGers I know of have had to get rabies shots after dog bites).

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

Nevertheless, the dog and I ambled around downtown together. Almost all of the businesses were closed on this late Monday afternoon.

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

I walked back to my parked car, the dog still accompanying me. I went to open my door, and it was clear the dog intended to jump in and leave with me. He was quite persistent, but I was able to get in solo, but when I started the car and moved forward, damned if the dog didn't get in front of the car and refuse to get out of the way.


Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

A woman walking by noticed the situation. I asked if she knew where the dog belonged .... nope. She said it looked like a "catahoula." She noted a collar on his neck and attempted to investigate it for information. No dice; the dog moved away, but darned if he didn't allow me to take a look. "Ned." A phone number. 

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

The woman, who I later learned was Missy, called the number immediately and left a voice mail, and we considered what to do next. Missy suggested we take him across the street to the guy who gives music lessons next to the now-defunct Fly Coffeehouse, because maybe he'd hold onto the dog til the owners called her back. I wondered aloud, "Why do you think this guy will hold onto the dog?" "Because he's a nice guy." So Missy, Ned, and I walked over to the music shop, where the guy was giving a lesson to a young girl. And the nice guy said, "Hey, I think that's the dog that's on the 'lost dog' poster." And he came out onto the sidewalk and pointed to a pole on the nearby corner.

While he and Missy put Ned in the guy's fenced courtyard behind the store, I walked up to the corner to look at the poster. Well, sure enough, there was Ned - his photo, name, and phone number, indicating he'd been lost since November 6 or 7. And a $100 reward. I commenced to pull the poster off of the pole, and heard a woman calling out to me from the street. She was in a big ol' SUV and she said, "Hey! I know who owns that dog!" And I said, great, because we just found him and told her where he was. So she whips around and parks behind the store, and we go into the front, joining Missy and the music guy.

After some conversation, the SUV woman and I realize that Ned is not the same dog she's thinking about, and as we work that out, who comes out into the main room but Ned, cocking his head as if to say, "Hey, where you guys been? I been waitin'!"

The music guy hustled Ned back into the courtyard, Missy takes her leave, and the music guy and the SUV woman work out a plan to get a dog crate to the store where Ned can remain safely until his owners retrieve him.


I take a happy photo.

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana


I go out back to say bye to Ned, whereupon I discover he's slipped away again. He's not too far, though, and the SUV woman unlocks her vehicle and tells me that if I can get him in there, that's OK by her. So I seduce Ned into the black vehicle, say goodbye to him, and give my number to the woman so she can let me know how it all turns out. (Meanwhile, the young music student waits patiently and good-humoredly throughout all these goings-on.) 


Grilled gator


Went to Pont Breaux for dinner and music. Selected the grilled gator. It was ok, and I won't feel the need to have it again just for the novelty of it. This morning's swamp tour guide had pointed out that farm-raised gator tastes like chicken; wild gator tastes of the swamp. I did ask the server if the gator was farm-raised, and she said it wasn't. Truth be told, the gator-ness of the dish didn't come out too much one way or the other.

There wasn't much happening at the Pont Breaux, seeing as how it was pretty early in the evening and it was Monday. The house band played to a sparse audience. I think they're probably pretty good, but maybe a little lackluster when there isn't that energy exchange between audience and musician. The band members looked a little ... ho hum about it. Another day at the office.
 

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Louisiana Road Trip 2011, Part 7: Cajun Country

Monthly jam at Tom's Fiddle & Bow

It's hard to push myself out the cottage door to explore, I'm enjoying so much the quiet daytime solitude inside.

Nevertheless, I did push myself outside and I went for a walk in Arnaudville. I saw a number of cars parked along a side street and went to investigate. Happily, I learned it was the monthly jam at Toms' Fiddle & Bow shop.

















Maybe up to 15 men and women playing the fiddle, guitar, accordian, and cello. Singing, too.









Everyone fit tightly but comfortably in the front room, which housed dozens of hanging fiddles and eccentric art pieces.

The ambiance reminded me of bluegrass jams in Missouri and of ceilidhs in Cape Breton.

Tom, the owner, sat on a high, cushioned bench with his Chinese crested hairless dog. Both were friendly. Tom kindly gave me a local paper that lists this week's area music venues.






Later in the afternoon, I took off for Henderson to listen to zydeco at Whiskey River Landing under the Henderson Levee.  Music every Sunday evening. Tonight was Geno Delafose and French Rockin' Boogie.




Vehicles parked below, on the side of and on top of the levee. Cowboy hats. Boots. Ten bucks at the door. Three dollars for a bottle of beer.











Packed dance floor. Many smiles. Kicking music. One of the musicians continuously looked out at the audience, scanning the folks having a good time, while he played his vest frottoir and chewed gum. I wondered what he was thinking; he seemed to be enjoying himself. A perfect perpetual motion thing perhaps: He gives energy via his music, the audience gives him energy in their good-time dancing or toe-tapping, he gives energy via his music ...









It was still light when I arrived at the landing. I saw a row of houseboats.













A pretty big houseboat looked permanently docked next to the bar.












A beautiful marshy view from the bar.


















I took my try at a dance ("1,2,3. 1,2,3.").

I really must learn how to dance.

Today, I also booked a room for part of my time in Dubai later this month. It's a tiny studio flat downtown.