Sunday, August 7, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: Three Walks and a Saint


A sampling of walks in Antigua.

One Sunday evening:

A Sunday evening walk in Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.


A Sunday evening walk in Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Sunday evening walk in Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.



A Sunday evening walk in Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Sunday evening walk in Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.



A Sunday evening walk in Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.


A Tuesday morning:

A Tuesday morning walk, Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Tuesday morning walk, Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Wednesday morning:

A Wednesday morning walk, Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Wednesday morning walk, Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Wednesday morning walk, Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Wednesday morning walk, Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

A Wednesday morning walk, Antigua Guatemala. April 2016.

I've got these three photos of the one statue of Hermano Pedro de San Jose because his story attracted me so much.

He's an example of the power just one person has to change a community. In Hermano Pedro's case, it's also remarkable that the charitable work he began in the mid-1600s continues today. It's worth noting, too, that Hermano Pedro persevered in his personal mission despite his failure to achieve his goal of becoming a priest because he "couldn't master the materials."

Below is a cheering video that shows some of the legacy of Hermano Pedro in Antigua:





Note: There appear to be two different hospitals that use Hermano Pedro's name. One is in the Tanque la Union square, managed by the Sisters of Charity. It is the Hospital of San Pedro. This appears to be the legacy of Hermano Pedro.  The other is a private hospital called the Hermano Pedro Private Hospital, which has attracted cautionary reviews like this one, and which appears to simply capitalize on Hermano Pedro's name.



Saturday, August 6, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: Volcano Family


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


I wonder how the omnipresent threat of volcanic eruptions and earthquakes shapes the Guatemalan worldview today, and how it shaped the Mayan mental model pre-Spanish era. Is there a dismal, fatalistic view? Life's a bitch and then it has puppies, and then you die! Or a fatalistic, but enjoy-the-moment outlook: Carpe diem! Or something that's somewhere in between. Like, pray to God but keep rowing the boat to shore. Or: Shit happens.


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.




In Antigua, there's no escaping the archaeological emoji of memento mori: remember you must die.
They are the crumbling stone carcasses left by massive shudderings from subterranean Earth giants. Maybe the fallen structures are the flip side of sand paintings that the artists swipe away after having spent many hours of painstaking placement of color and shape. Some to illustrate the impermanence of life. Some to dissipate toxic spirits after a healing.


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.



Raise your eyes just a bit and, always hovering, are those volatile family members who appear placid now, but you know it's just a matter of time before they'll blow out their molten rage or poisonous gray ash. Will it be today? Tomorrow? A year? A generation?


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


A passage from Joan Didion's Year of Magical Thinking sticks with me:
"... many people I knew .. believed absolutely in their own management skills. They believed absolutely in the power of the telephone numbers they had at their fingertips, the right doctor, the major donor, the person who could facilitate a favor at State or Justice. The management skills of these people were in fact prodigious. The power of their telephone numbers was in fact unmatched. I had myself for most of my life shared the same core belief in my ability to control events. If my mother was suddenly hospitalized in Tunis I could arrange for the American consul to bring her English-language newspapers and get her onto an Air France flight to meet my brother in Paris. ...Yet ... Some events would just happen. This was one of those events. You sit down to dinner and life as you know it ends."


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.



When I drive by a nasty car crash, I think, "Remember, remember. Pay attention to your now. These people did not get up this morning thinking they'd be killed or maimed in a car crash."


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


In Aldous Huxley's book, The Island, there is the black, orange-beaked mynah that flies about the island, announcing: "Attention" and "Here and now, boys. Here and now, boys."

"That's what you always forget, isn't it? I mean, you forget to pay attention to what's happening And that's the same as not being here and now," said the little girl, Mary Sarojini MacPhail.


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.



Antigua's volcanoes. Memento mori. Pay attention. Here and now, boys!


Volcano presence, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.



Friday, August 5, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: Spanish Language Schools

 
My Spanish school courtyard classroom. Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


There are dozens of Spanish language schools in and around Antigua.

Here are my thoughts on choosing a school, deciding on a schedule, and other considerations related to a language school.



School selection

In my not-so-humble-opinion, just about any of them will be good enough for most visitors to Antigua.

Yes, do check online reviews to weed out schools with a pattern of concerns noted by previous students.

Don't put too much weight on the number of AMAZING!!! reviews a school has from past students. There are just too many variables that contribute to such reviews, such as: 
  • Rating inflation, where people believe that anything less than FIVE STARS!!! is a fail
  • The desire to appreciate a teacher who was nice, notwithstanding other merits or demerits of the experience
  • Lack of comparison with other language-learning experiences 

If you're going to be in Antigua for longer than a month, then I recommend that you:
  1. Before arrival, weed some schools out, based on internet research; 
  2. After arrival, visit five or so schools so you can eyeball the environment yourself, get a vibe from the school administrators, and ask questions that are important to you; and
  3. Select a school, pay for one week, and then see if it's the school you want to stick with. If not, then move on to the next school on a short list you developed after your visits. After a week in the first school, you'll also have better questions in case you want to re-visit some others before making another decision. 

If you're going to be in Antigua less than a month: 
  1. Before arrival, weed some schools out, based on internet research;
  2. Before arrival, contact the school that seems to best fit your needs, and reserve a space for your first week (but do NOT send payment in advance); and
  3. After arrival, give the first week at the selected school a try.  If you know after the first or second lesson, it ain't gonna work for you, then hit the streets to find a different school you can start the second week. 
  4. Before paying for another week (or more) at a second school, book a sample lesson so you can make a more informed decision.

If you're going to be in Antigua only a week or two:
  1. Before arrival, weed some schools out, based on internet research;
  2. Before arrival, contact the school that seems to best fit your needs, and reserve a space for your first week (but do NOT send payment in advance); and
  3. After arrival, give the selected school a try.  If it's "good enough," then I invite you to just go with that. You're only in Antigua for a week or two. You want to have fun, and the time in school is just one part of your being in Antigua. Why invest more time and brain energy in hunting down an AMAZING school when what you've got is good enough? Instead, invest that time and energy in asking the teacher or the administrator for what you need to make your learning experience better for you. 
  4. If your first choice is unsatisfying and not fixable, then find a different school. Or consider changing your agenda and tossing out Spanish lessons altogether. Or reducing the number of class hours from what you'd originally planned.


Antigua, Guatemala - View from my school's rooftop terrace. April 2016.



Teacher selection

Actually, a school will assign you a teacher.

In my case, I appreciated my teacher's directness and we had quite a few provocative conversations that challenged both of us. When there was a time when I preferred that she share information with me in a different way, she accommodated me.

However, if I were generally satisfied with the school but not with the teacher, I'd not hesitate to ask for a different teacher. If, for some reason, that wasn't realistic, or if the school refused, then I'd simply go find a different school.



Schedule selection

For my month's stay in Antigua, I chose four hours in the morning, Monday through Friday.

If I were to do it again, I'd choose two hours in the morning, Monday through Thursday.

In theory, four hours a day of 1:1 language instruction should result in significant progress in language learning. But this theory assumes the student is vigilant about daily lesson reviews outside the classroom and is aggressive about tracking and entrapping native Spanish speakers in Spanish conversation. That student wasn't me.

Another factor in learning a language is accountability. When we're in a regular school or university, there are exams and grades and certificates awarded based on the achievement of certain levels of proficiency. In a language-school environment in which the student is the custodian of attendance, study, and progress, there is no motivating carrot such as a good grade or a certificate of proficiency.

So, for me, two hours of language instruction per day would be perfect, because every hour of instruction on top of that would provide only incremental progress.


Antigua, Guatemala - View from my school's rooftop terrace. April 2016.



Location

There are pros and cons to attending a school close to your accommodations.

My school was about a mile from my lodgings. There were a number of schools that I passed en route, one or two of them only a couple of blocks away from the airbnb.

I walked to and from school every day, although I could have taken a tuk-tuk.

The negatives to choosing a school so far from home:
  1. A 40-minute round trip walking commute every day. Even though this is wonderful exercise, there are opportunity costs in lost recreation, study, or work time.
  2. Daily negotiation through roads filled with school kids in the mornings and at noon. This isn't that big a deal by itself, but it does add to one's daily receipt of sensory stimulation, and this has a cumulative effect. 
  3. An earlier morning rise than you might want some days. 

The positives to choosing a school so far from home: 
  1. The 40-minute round trip walking commute was terrific exercise!
  2. Getting up early in the morning to walk to school - the schoolkid rush in the mornings is much less than at noon - and it was a pleasure to meander through parks when there were hardly any people about. 
  3. By walking every day, often varying my route, I encountered visual and audio sweets that I might not have otherwise.
  4. It was very convenient for me to do my food shopping after class, as the city market and the supermarket were fairly close to my school and only the slightest bit out of my way back home. There were no such markets close to my airbnb home, only the mini-markets with very limited inventories. 

Extras

Some schools add to their lure by offering "free" presentations or tours or cultural experiences. Eh. For me, these are kind of like "free" breakfasts at many chain hotels. For one, there ain't nothing for free - if it's a good spread, then the cost is just embedded in the price of your room. And some of the "free" breakfasts are very, very sad.

When it comes to the schools, it seems that some of the experiences are available to the public, free, and the school is just piggy-backing on these events. There's nothing intrinsically wrong with this, especially if the school has only a few students the same time you're there. My message to you is: Don't get too googly-eyed by the extras in your decision-making.

Homestays

Some schools will arrange for homestays. Depending on what kinds of experience you're looking for, I suggest considering the homestays that your proposed school offers, what other homestay opportunities you can find on your own (which could be much less expensive), considering an airbnb option, or renting an apartment if you'll be in Antigua for awhile.

Going with a school-arranged homestay could be great for you. On the other hand, you may find you like your homestay family but not the school. Or the reverse. How comfortable will you be about making a change to one and not the other?


Bottom line

At the end of the day, your learning experience will be largely what you make of it.

To maximize your satisfaction, I suggest you: 
  1. Define the over-arching goals for your entire trip to Antigua, not just for the language-learning portion;
  2. Do some research on realistic expectations for language learning with the time constraints you have; and
  3. Make an honest appraisal of the kind of student you are (not a projection of what kind of student you tell yourself you will be), including a realistic assessment of how much time and energy you will devote to language study and practice outside the classroom. 

Then hunt for a school experience that best matches up with the above.  Be clear about your desired outcomes when you talk to the schools.


Thursday, August 4, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: Repairs, Renovations, Ruination


In progress ...

Roof repair. Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

Roof repair above.

A grand renovation below.


Renovation. Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

Renovation. Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

Renovation. Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

Renovation. Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.



Shaken ruins await their turn.

Ruination. Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: On a Holiday or Just a Different Office Space?


Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


I had an ambitious but, I thought, realistic agenda for my month in Antigua:
  • Spanish classes for four hours every morning, Monday through Friday, for four weeks;
  • Take dance lessons; 
  • Go to live music venues in the evenings; 
  • Climb a volcano maybe; 
  • Go to Lake Atitlan for a few days; 
  • Do some remote work; and
  • Embed myself to some extent in the social circles of Guatemalans. 

My original mindset was: I am on a vacation, during which time I will also study some Spanish and do some work.

At a certain point in my stay, in order to attain a healthy perspective, I had to change my mindset to: I am working in Antigua for a month, studying Spanish in the mornings, and when I have spare time, I will do vacation-y things.

I had to change my mindset in order to let go of resentment.

My remote work was consuming much more time than I had anticipated. In one sense, it was good because billable hours = income.

Unfortunately, a moving assembly line of work-related challenges, large and small, also ate a lot of my time. Often, the challenges required that I wait for responses from people while they managed (or not) the ball that was in their court. Although waiting demanded no action on my part in any given moment, the non-action of waiting sucked a major percentage of my brain's CPUs, which dragged down all of my brain's apps. Apps devoted to my thinking about and planning and doing fun stuff.

Changing my mindset changed my expectations, and therefore made it easier to achieve serenity. And have more fun.




Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


I re-thought my original agenda, keeping some items on board and tossing others into the sea.

For example, instead of taking Spanish classes for all four weeks of my time in Antigua, I stopped after the third week.

I did attend one sample dance lesson, and it was fun, but the space was cramped and, really, the dances and lessons in town seemed much better equipped to work with couples than singles. Dance lessons: Tossed into the sea.

I confess that inertia kept me from live music venues at night. I could rationalize to you that my days were so full from studying, working, walking, and other activities, that I was just too whupped to also go out at night (late) for music. And this would be true. But inertia played a big role, and I don't let myself off the hook for this. I know I would have had a blast at some Antigua night clubs, making it completely worthwhile to sacrifice sleep. But inertia is always lurking about in the shallows, waiting to drag a solo traveler down into the deeps.

An acquaintance once said, "Every day is solving for x." This was true for my time in Antigua, and there came a moment in my stay that I appreciated the problem-solving challenges that came my way.

It was a fucking growth opportunity.













Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: A Precarious Walk


Calle Chipilapa, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

My airbnb place in Antigua was at the T at the "top" of 7th Calle, the same street San Francisco Church is on.

One morning, I took a left onto Calle de Chipilapa from my neighborhood enclave instead of taking my usual straight shot down 7th Calle.

The walk along Chipilapa was treacherous. This main artery around Antigua is almost always clogged with vehicular traffic in both directions. When a sidewalk exists, it is narrow.

But there came a moment when I gasped at the unexpected beauty of a sight on my left. 

Ermita de la Santa Cruz, Calle Chipilapa, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


It was as if I had been walking through a rain forest and suddenly came upon an undiscovered temple.

Ermita de la Santa Cruz, Calle Chipilapa, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


Wow.


Ermita de la Santa Cruz, Calle Chipilapa, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


Back in the day, the Ermita de la Santa Cruz (the Hermitage of Santa Cruz) was a Catholic temple built for the indigenous people in the area. Originally constructed in 1664, earthquakes required renovations in 1717 and 1773. A 1943 earthquake really did a number on it, and it decayed in place until 1973, when it was restored sufficiently to serve as a back-drop for musical and theatrical performances.

Seeing this treasure was worth the precarious walk.



Monday, August 1, 2016

Guatemala: The Love Motels


In some countries, they are "love motels." In Guatemala, they're "auto hotels."

In my trip between Antigua and Lake Atitlan, I saw plenty. Ditto for the trek to the airport between Antigua and Guatemala City.

I asked my airbnb hostess about the bounty of these love hotels in Guatemala. Again, I had this assumption of Guatemala as a socially conservative culture, yet there is very little subtlety about the nature of these hotel when you pass them by on the road.

She said, oh yes, they are very common. One of the busiest days of the year is Secretary's Day, she reported. This is when bosses take their secretaries out to .... lunch.


Some articles:


Here is the website for the Omni auto hotel. You can even book a reservation at this hotel via booking.com. One happy client, "David," reports:

La habitación tan lujosa, es un buen lugar para compartir con la pareja momentos intimos, es hasta el momento el mejor love hotel al que e ido. 

The very luxurious room is a good place to share intimate moments with a partner; so far it's the best love hotel I've been to. 

And here's the website for another auto hotel: Auto Hotel Chocolate. And the Happy Day Auto Hotel's Facebook page here.

The bottom line in any culture is that people are gonna do what people are gonna do. There are work-arounds for every rule.

I don't have a photo of a Guatemalan love hotel. But that's OK. It gives me a chance to revisit the sign from a hotel in Nazret (Adama) in Ethiopia.






Sunday, July 31, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: Girls: PDAs and Promises

 


School kids in uniforms abound in Antigua. White blouses and plaid pleated skirts for girls. White shirts and dark trousers for boys.





In the mornings on the way to school, on the way home during the lunch hour, or in the afternoon after school had let out, a common scene on the sidewalk: An adolescent boy and an adolescent girl together, up close. Sometimes kisses exchanged. Sometimes just long, meaningful looks. Sometimes caresses. Quite a lot of PDA, in fact.

I could just imagine what the boys were whispering into the girls' ears - the same thing boys have whispered into their desired targets for millennia, right?  Promises of love eternal, assurances of beauty, and all that.




All this PDA on the Antiguan streets surprised me because of two assumptions I held:
  • Guatemala's social culture is very traditional; i.e. very conservative in regards to dating between boys and girls, especially the public comportment of girls and women; and
  • Antigua is a small town, so observations-judgment-gossip spreads quickly. 




I asked both my Spanish teacher and my airbnb hostess about the prevalence of these public mating rituals.




In a nutshell, said both women, it's the same old story that spans current and past cultural mores. It's the boys' job to hunt and conquest. It's the girls' job to keep their legs closed. If a girl succumbs to a boy's advances, all judgment falls on her. After all, the boy was just doing what a boy is supposed to do.

Well, I asked, are condoms at least readily available?

Sure, but again, same old story. Boys don't want to wear them. Boys won't go to the pharmacy to buy them. Girls won't either because ... what "good girl" would buy condoms?

Although the adolescent romantic theater playing on Antigua's charming cobblestone streets might appear sweet - ahhh, young love! - it is a fanciful mist that masks the reality of disturbing cultural realities in Guatemala:

The dysfunctions are tied to these and other variables: 
  • Machismo culture that discounts girls and women, and where violence against girls and women is acceptable
  • Egregious gender inequality, where girls don't have the access boys do to education, health care, reproductive rights, or self-determination
  • Decades-long civil war that employed rape and other violence as a method of control 
  • Corrupt or ineffective government systems that ignore or don't have the capacity to effect positive changes or protect girls and women
  • Faith leaders who are complicit in maintaining the status quo for girls and women in Guatemala by failing to stand up for the physical and emotional safety and health of girls and women

Here are a couple of stories from two Peace Corps volunteers in Guatemala, and their experiences with sexual harassment in-country:









Saturday, July 30, 2016

Letters From Matt #11: Haramachi, Japan: Bubbly Things

 
Postcard from Matt, July 1991. Japan.



Letters From Matt are letters from my brother, Matt, from various of his domestic and international travels. The letters span decades, and I share them on Living Rootless at intervals, in no particular order. 

September 1991
Haramachi, Japan

Dear Mzuri,
Yesterday I bought a plastic aquarium and some inexpensive fish (by Japanese standards, they were cheap, anyway). I was really excited about the purchase and am right now listening happily to the bubbles vibrating the plastic container and making a noise that anyone else would consider annoying 

I set up the project on my big windowsill in my classroom. Hopefully, it will generate a few words of English from my students like maybe "Would you turn that noisy thing off," and maybe some words of admiration from some. 

Not wanting to buy a bag of rocks to cover the bottom, I rode my bike to the beach for my own selection. Surprisingly, I bumped into the new English teacher from the next town. She's a pretty blonde (I told her all your blonde jokes. Ain't I the suave one.) from Connecticut. 

She helped me collect rocks. We oohed and aahed at each one as if we were buying art objects.


As we were hunting for rocks, I spied one of those hand-blown green glass bubbles that were used to keep fish nets afloat. I lunged for it greedily, yelling "Look! It still has the net wrapped around it." I wonder how long it had been floating in the ocean. A typhoon passed through just one day earlier so I guess it brought the bubble along with it. Maybe it had sunk to the bottom of the ocean with a big rotten fish in it and finally after all these years came loose and washed ashore. It's a small glass bubble just bigger than my fist.


Matt's Japanese fishing bubble, years later. Credit: Matt

This morning at 6:30 a friend picked me up at my apartment and we went canoeing in his 13 ft Coleman canoe. The river was high and fast and the canoe not very stable. Water lapped into the boat as we cut through bumpy water. Today is a holiday because of the Autumn equinox, even more special because a full moon has come at the same time and that's good luck. We have a holiday at every solstice and equinox. 

Thanks a lot for the book. I just started it and it's very interesting reading for me now. 

Take care, 

Brother Matt





Friday, July 29, 2016

Antigua, Guatemala: My Antiguan Home


My Antiguan lodgings, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


One morning, I sat on a cushioned bench on my airbnb hostess' covered veranda. I took in my garden surroundings. A walled courtyard. Entertaining cloud formations in the sky. Birds singing in the local language, melodic and cheering.


My Antiguan lodgings, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.


Around me was artwork of various subjects, media, textures, colors, and sizes. Each piece invited my attention.


I admired the modest, but well-curated flower displays in the garden. I ate many lunches on the veranda. I pulled basil leaves from a garden plant for a savory pouf to sandwiches made with tomatoes and salty, soft farmer cheese on that luscious bread I loved.


My bedroom was at the end of a wing of rooms. The wing had three bedrooms. Two bedrooms shared a full bath. One could enter either of these bedrooms or the shared bath from the veranda, via an alcove.

My bedroom had a private bath. From my bed, I could look out to the garden through the room's french doors.

From my little enclave neighborhood, I could see:

View from my Antiguan neighborhood, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

View from my Antiguan neighborhood, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

My Antiguan neighborhood, Antigua, Guatemala. April 2016.

French doors and walled courtyards. In my perfect world, if and when I ever settle down, my little place will have these two features.

A pictorial visit to my apartment in Alamogordo in 2012-2013, with a soul-gladdening view through its french doors.

My Alamogordo apartment, 2012-2013.




Thursday, July 28, 2016

Lake Atitlan, Guatemala: Going Back to Antigua


Walkway between La Iguana Perdida and neighboring property, Santa Cruz, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala. April 2016.


Time to say goodbye to Lake Atitlan and return to Antigua.


Public dock, Panajachel, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala. April 2016.


Upon disembarking at the Panajachel dock, I meandered up toward my bus pick-up, taking a different route than I'd used when I arrived at Lake Atitlan a few days before. By chance, I came across a street that one might call the Golden Kilometer of artisan tables, where vendors sold their jewelry, polished stones, leather work, etc. I saw some items that interested me, but they were beyond my budget. There were more than a few nomadic expats selling their wares.

I arrived very early for the bus departure, so I walked over to a cafe down the road, and asked the staff if they could boil a couple of eggs for me. They were happy to do so and even peeled them and put them in a coffee cup with a lid so they'd be bus-ride sturdy. With some of my left-over German bread, they were perfect bus food.


A little bit of Panajachel from my chicken bus back to Antigua below. If you get motion sickness, you might want to take a Dramamine before watching.




The bus trip back to Antigua was uneventful. However, I did have the opportunity to notice again the curious motels I'd seen on the way to Lake Atitlan.

The motels boasted extravagant names of love and queens and romance. Quite outside the box of social conservatism that one associates with Guatemala. More on this later.