Sunday, October 23, 2011

Georgia: The 40th Day, Part 2: The Morning Of

Kardanakhi, Georgia
 
Friday evening, Nely's son, Paata, and daughter-in-law, Eka, picked up Nely and me to go to Kardanakhi. Before leaving Rustavi, we swung by and also picked up one of Paata's cousins.

We drove through Signaghi to pick up some pastries, made by another relative, to add to the next day's feast.

(Signaghi is Georgia's "city of love," called thus because its local laws make it very easy to get a quickie wedding.  Many expats, such as Americans, moved there and gentrified it. Known for artists who settled there, in addition to a very famous - in Georgia - American who, as they say, "went native." He married a Georgian woman, became a fluent and much-admired Georgian speaker, and opened a winery that embraces the ancient method of Georgian wine-making. Signaghi is definitely a tourist town. Some find Signaghi charming; others find it a Disney version of a Georgian village. I'll reserve judgment until I can see it during the day on a future visit.)

We arrived at Nely and her husband's village house to be welcomed by some relatives and neighbors with a light dinner and wine. Already visiting the house for some time were two of Irakli's sisters. They, and a sister who lives next door, are the three remaining sisters out of an original eight. Irakli, Nely's husband, is the only son of his father.

The house is a two-story building; external staircase gets you from one floor to the other. The main floor houses the kitchen, a living room, a small bedroom, and the storage/wine room.

Upstairs is a large balcony with a money-shot view of the valley below Kardanachi and, when the haze lifts, the Caucasus Mountains. There are also two "hard-wall" bedrooms and a curtain-wall bedroom and a salon, I guess you'd call it.

Kardanakhi, Georgia


The Georgian bed system is pretty basic. You've got your twin size, twin size or ... twin bed. The marital bed equals two twins pushed together. My experience thus far is that the guts consist of a somewhat springy metal lattice underpinning with thin cloth pallets laid on top. The bed has a flat sheet that lays nicely on the top pallet, but for some reason, the sheet is not quite long enough to cover both ends of the mattress. (This held true for the pricey hotel we stayed in during orientation.) On top of the sheet is a duvet. Georgian pillows are huge and square-shaped.

Well, I kind of digressed there ... I slept in the curtain-walled "room" on a twin bed. I knew it would be cold, so I had come prepared with layers to sleep in.

The next morning, Saturday, was the 40-day observance.
 
A neighbor slaughtered the sheep and then butchered it.
 
Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia
Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia. All that remains is the rope

Butchering a sheep, Kardanakhi, Georgia


Other men, both relatives and neighbors, prepared some beef, peeling onions and garlic.

Kardanakhi, Georgia

Kardanakhi, Georgia

Kardanakhi, Georgia


Women, both relatives and neighbors, readied big pots for cooking over the fire by applying wet wood ash on the sides of the pots.

Kardanakhi, Georgia

Kardanakhi, Georgia

This will sound peculiar to Americans but, by and large, the meat was boiled. Startling, I know, but it is tasty. Herbs, onions, garlic, and spices go into the pot, too.

Kardanakhi, Georgia


Kardanakhi, Georgia


Inside, women prepared other dishes.


Kardanakhi, Georgia

Kardanakhi, Georgia

Kardanakhi, Georgia


Tables were moved outside to prepare for the feast after the cemetery visit.

Kardanakhi, Georgia

Next: The 40th Day, Part 3: Cemetery and Supra 

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Georgia: The 40th Day, Part 1: Two Days Before

Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia


The Georgian Christian Orthodox Church (like the Ethiopian Christian Orthodox Church) marks important interval days after a loved one dies: 3rd day, 7th day, 40th day, one year.

This weekend marked the 40th day after the death of my hostess' sister-in-law, Jejuna.


On Wednesday night, I accompanied Nely and her son and daughter-in-law to a market to lay in stocks for the 40th-day meal that would take place in Kardanakhi. Nely, Ketino (co-grandmother to shared granddaughter), relatives, and some neighbors would make everything.

Thursday night, Nely and Ketino stayed up so very late preparing food.


As with the 7th day feast, there are certain things that are served at the 40-day feast. Traditions vary with the region ... nay, even the village.

They deconstructed fish.

Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia


Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia
They deconstructed chicken ...


And reconstructed chicken: 

Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia
Thursday evening, just as Ketino had partially pulled apart (to kind of flatten them) the chickens for oven-roasting, an urgent call rang from the village. It was a neighbor or relative reminding Nely about the "tabla," the tradition (local to Kardanakhi) to set aside a petite version of the entire feast to give to an individual in the village, along with certain specific gifts, such as a comb, a mirror, some china, utensils, cups, and a nightgown. It was essential that the chicken in the "tabla" be boiled, not roasted.

This is when Nely turned to me and said, "Remember when I told you that not all Georgian traditions are good ones? This tabla business is an example."

I watched while Ketino reconstructed the partially-flattened chicken into an unflattened chicken, with string, to be tossed into a pot of water instead of into the oven. (Don't tell anyone.)

 They cooked livers and prepped mushrooms.

Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia
Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia



 








Ketino, an acclaimed cook (though Nely is not so shabby herself), made 15 khachapuri. No matter how tired she was, Ketino gave the same careful attention to each. She patted out the dough, then broke a tennis-ball size round of cheese onto the center, then delicately gathered up the edges to make a pouch, then oh-so-carefully patted it out into a flat again, before popping it into the oven. 

Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia
Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia
Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia
Preparing funeral feast, Rustavi, Georgia
One whopping tennis-ball size amount of cheese into each khachapuri
Khachapuri just out of the oven, dotted with butter


When I arose at 6:00 a.m. on Friday, Ketino was finishing the last of the khachapuri. Shortly after, she caught a brief nap before getting up to go to work in Tbilisi.

On the Rustavi front, all was ready for transport to Kardanakhi Friday evening.

In Kardanakhi, there was a sheep on the farm, awaiting slaughter on Saturday morning. While there, it would be given salt, blessed by a clergyman, to ingest before sacrifice. (At the 7-day feast, a calf was slaughtered.)

Friday, October 21, 2011

Georgia: A Story of Poo

When I thought of the things I'd be doing in Georgia, I thought of a lot of fun and interesting things.

Carrying a stool sample on a marshrutka, en route to the doctor's office, was not one of those things.

And yet there I was. 

A cold and rainy day. Plagued with diarrhea for the previous five days, now on the sixth.

On Wednesday, I finally went to the doctor's building to get things checked out.  

I often say there are no secrets in Georgia. This is especially true in Georgian medical facilities. Privacy? Confidentiality about medical matters in Georgia? [Insert laugh track here.]

No, two doctors share an office, their desks side-by-side. Patients describe their complaints simultaneously to their respective docs, while other patients sit on the examination table awaiting their turn.

So I did all that on Wednesday, describing my symptoms. The doctor eventually prescribed a bag o' drugs for me, and then asked if I wanted to bring in a stool sample the next day for testing. Yeah, I did, because I don't think I've ever been afflicted with diarrhea for so long, and I wanted to nail down the cause, if possible.

Nodding agreement, the doctor then gave me a specimen container.  Hahahahahaha! That's a complete lie! No, they don't have such things at this medical building. It would be up to me to figure something out.

I went home to my empathetic hostess, who, nevertheless, was confident that the nature of my problem was simply the "change in the weather." At this point, I was feeling a little exasperated with the firm beliefs, held by most Georgians, that the following cause illness:

  • Change in the weather
  • Drinking cold water in cold weather
  • Not wearing slippers in the house

I had a bit of a tantrum, pointing out the Missouri sometimes experiences HUGE swings in weather from one day to the next - FAR more volatile, in fact, than Georgian weather, thank you very much - and that, by God, Missourians could kick Georgians' asses any time of day from our hardiness, and that I have been around the block a few times, for Christ's sake, and I think ..... oh well, need I go on?

At any rate, Nely, who graciously remained unfazed, rooted around in her medical-supply drawer and pulled out a round-bottomed, unlidded, glass thingie. A pretty little thing. In the past, she used it for home-remedy "cupping" where you heat the glass then apply it to the sick one's back to create suction. She said this would make a good specimen container. I protested, saying it was really an antique and had value, but she shrugged and insisted that I use it. She boiled it in readiness for the big do the next morning.

[Note: Since we're talking about poo anyway .... When we were children, my siblings and I were taught to use the word "go-go" to indicate the need to use the toilet, as in, from parent: "Do you have to go-go?" Or from one of us, desperately: "I have to go-go!"  In Georgia, "gogo" means girl. Thank God my siblings are grown-ups now because if we weren't, we'd be giggling every time we heard the word. Though I think we brought one sibling to tears once when we called him "gogo-wicki" over and over and over again.]

So the next morning the specimen was captured and pretty well sealed and I carried it gingerly within my big festival bag and onto the marshrutka (with the plan to look meaningfully at a fellow passenger in the event an odor emanated in the van, hoping to deflect suspicion onto that innocent soul and away from me), then off the marshrutka and up to the doctor's office.

Oh wait, I forgot to mention that I'd forgotten that the container had that round bottom, so when I did the capture, I set it atop the toilet tank and .... oops. Fortunately circumstances were such that getting an additional specimen was not an issue.

Is all this TMI? Hell, don't blame me; you made the decision to read this far.  

So I carried my little specimen to the doctor and subsequently found myself, still carrying it, following a woman through the corridors of this building to the lab. Robust women populated the lab; none looked pleased at what I brought for their consideration and review. My escort, however, prevailed upon them to take it and do something with it. Based on the body language I observed, I'm guessing the conversation went something like this:

Lab woman: "What the hell are you bringing us here? We don't have time for this shit!"
My escort: "Yeah, I know, but this American woman, you know, we have to deal with her because she's part of that program the president has."
Lab woman: "I get so tired of this shit!"
My escort: "Yes, I know my darling, but you know what they say -- shit rolls downhill, so what can I do?"
Lab woman: "Goddammit! Give it to me, then, and get out of here. Jesus. Same old shit every day. My job is shit ... ."

So we left my specimen in the lab woman's capable (and ungloved) hands and returned to the doctor's office to await the results.


Word arrived that I had a lot of something or another in there. Next step - blood sample. Back to the lab. A woman (ungloved) pricked my finger, and then sucked up the rubber collection tube to allow more room for the blood to flow into it. She also smeared some blood on a glass slide, then put another atop it.

I went back to the doctor and she escorted me from one office to another, consulting with other doctors about my situation. Then we returned to her office, where she informed me that she wanted me to to the Infection Hospital for more testing. I'll cut through some of the attempted, aborted, language-barrier conversations to the point where Nana, my excellent TLG regional representative, arrived to translate and to escort me to the hospital.

We took a taxi, walked through mud to the rear entrance (hospital under renovation), wound through some corridors to an office with the infection expert, who asked me various questions, then palpated me, then ... ok I'm boring myself. Moving forward .... an employee delivered to me a sweet little glass jar with a glass stirrer, which she had poked through a hole in the paper-towel-like covering that was bound to the jar with sort of a blue ribbon. It was like a little gift package. In which I was to provide another specimen. Which I did.

Fast forward to Monday afternoon when results in. Anti-climactic. Everything normal.

Not sure what did the trick, but by Sunday, things were fine. It could have been any of the following: 
  • Time
  • Salt mixed with chacha (which does not taste good, btw)
  • The various "enzyme" drugs I took
Ah well, as long as things turned out in the end.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Tbilisi: Caucasus Business and Development Network

Tbilisi, Georgia


Sandy and I met up with Eberle in Tbilisi on Sunday. We found Eberle talking to another colleague, Hannah, who had noticed a free (free!) wine-cheese-honey-tea tasting event right next door to our rendezvous spot.

Tbilisi, Georgia

 Free? But of course.

Tbilisi, Georgia


The event was hosted by the Caucasus Business and Development Network. CBDN "promotes peacebuilding through regional economic cooperation and dialogue between all business communities across the South Caucasus."

Tbilisi, Georgia
Members include product producers in Georgia, Armenia, Turkey, and South Osettia (a battleground between Georgia and Russia).

Tbilisi, Georgia


I tasted a delicious honey-imbued brandy, a fabulous Armenian honey, and Armenian cheese. Really, all of the products were luscious.


Tbilisi, Georgia
Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi, Georgia

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Rustavi: Rustavi Kalakhoba, Part 5: Wrap Up

Rustavi barber

 As with the Tbilosoba the weekend before, the actual festival of Rustavi Kalakhoba was only so-so.

First was the maddening uncertainty for two months about which weekend it would be. You'd be damned surprised how many Rustavians I asked, and the answer was the same: "In October." Yes, I got that. Which weekend in October was a mystery.

Was it one day or two days? "One day." Saturday.

I learned on Thursday, maybe Friday that the festival was actually both Saturday and Sunday.

Sandy and I chose Saturday as the big day.

Rustavi, Georgia



We met up with former hostess Nino, along with former neighbors or neighbors of friends, Tia and Tamuna. We wandered around a bit. Some music performed by children and youngish adults. Many booths selling the same things: churchkhela, small toys, a million cotton candy vendors, numerous svardi booths. I had been given to understand that towns from throughout the Kvemo Kartli region would bring the wares they are famous for. I saw very little evidence of this.

Rustavi, Georgia


Inexplicably, about midday, all music stopped and didn't resume til after dark.. . .... OK, I could go on a bit, but I'll cut to the chase. It turns out that Sunday was the really big day for dancers arriving from all over the country and even beyond, such as from the Ukraine. Those regional people bringing their wares? On Sunday.

People, people - it's all about marketing! Sheesh.

Sandy and I, clueless about what Sunday would bring, went to Tbilisi for the day. When I returned, I discovered a killer troupe of traditional Georgian dancers on the stage. The audience was sadly small.

Rustavi, Georgia