My hostess, Sandy, and I went out to her friend's house for lunch. We took the subway.
As we've now learned, Toronto is a little whack. The evidence to support this conclusion is here, here, and here.
It was on the subway that I learned Toronto is a gateway into another dimension. Yeah, I know, why don't we all know about this, right? I don't have the answer to that, but I could see with my own eyes that the Toronto subway system defies the laws of directionalism. My personal theory is that this is so upsetting to Torontonians and their visitors that they all live in denial.
An SEP is something we can't see, or don't see, or our brain doesn't let
us see, because we think that it's somebody else's problem. That’s what
SEP means. Somebody Else’s Problem. The brain just edits it out, it's
like a blind spot.
And isn't the woman's voice delicious? It's like every sci-fi remote voice.
Gosh darn, I love the incongruity of sitting in one direction while watching how my subway-future makes [will make][will have made] such deep turns and I don't feel [won't feel][won't have felt] a thing.
The Church of the Holy Trinity sees the homeless. The church has a clear, succinct, easy-to-remember, actionable mission statement: "loving justice in the heart of the city."
Toronto Homeless Memorial, The Church of the Holy Trinity, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
Toronto Homeless Memorial, The Church of the Holy Trinity, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
Sandy, her friend Heloise, and I stopped by the church for a few contemplative moments. We sat in the shade. We also took a turn in the labyrinth walk in the pocket park by the church.
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Source: Yoldasin.
Toronto comes in for some ribbing about its architecture.
The Royal Ontario Museum, for example. It's as if the historic mother building were harboring a neonatal alien in its belly, and suddenly said alien yowwen burst forth, ravenous, ripping open its host.
Then there's the preposterous pencil and eraser construct for the Sharp Centre for Design. Literal art.
When I think of the buildings in downtown Toronto, troops of tall, blue, glassine structures come to mind, interspersed with sandy-colored block buildings.
I also think about new buildings that have sprung up, which interrupt the light that their older neighbors used to enjoy. "Shadowing" is not a new problem for Toronto. On one day, Sandy left her Toronto apartment for a far-away island; upon her return a couple of years later, a brand-new neighbor had shouldered itself in - a tall condo building that darkened her balcony.
Overall, however, I don't know that Toronto is any less lackluster than most other cities. And to tell you the truth, I'm still kind of impressed there is a statue of a businessman, dressed in a business suit, in one of Toronto's pocket parks. It's a real departure from the usual public statue fodder, such as warriors, whether modern or historic.
Canada Day, Harbourfront, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. July 2016.
Canada Day is July 1. Canada Day commemorates the enactment of the 1867 Constitution Act, which united Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick into a single political entity.
Canada Day isn't the same as the American 4th of July, as Canada was still a "dominion" of the British Empire under the Constitution Act. Canada didn't become fully independent as a nation until 1982.
But I guess Canada Day is kinda like the USA's Independence Day in that it is a national holiday, there are millions of barbecues-and-beer, and fireworks.
Anyhoo, Sandy and I sauntered down to the Harbourfront on Canada Day to see the fireworks, et al.
I savored a brief connection between Toronto and Lafayette, Louisiana, upon seeing Nomadic Massive perform. This band had appeared at International Festival when I was in Louisiana.
Canada Day, Harbourfront, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. July 2016.
The most impressive experience of the night was when everyone left the Harbourfront. The energy, the voice-song, the movement, the alive-ness of so many persons washing over the city floor like a tide from the great lake, singular souls that, together, flowed like a wave.
Sandy and I had delayed too long to get a comfortable, good viewing spot for the Canada Day fireworks. In the area between the water and the start of the Harbourfront shops, virtually every single square inch of space was occupied. We finally settled on a not-very-good-but-acceptable spot next to a fountain pool and behind an inconvenient tree.
I don't anticipate ever needing this brilliant tip in the future, but in case it is of use to you: A magnificent view of the fireworks is to be had - albeit standing - adjacent-ish to the Harbourfront Centre, steps from Queens Quay. This has the added advantage of being close to the public restrooms inside the building. Not to mention speedy egress at the end of the display.
I only discovered this vantage point because I had to use the restroom, and when I exited the building to return to Sandy and our ho-hum spot up toward the front (near the shore line), I saw the glorious views of the fireworks from the Harbourfront Centre.
A good lesson: Being up close isn't always the best seat in the house.
Toward the end of my two-week visit, Sandy took me to the Toronto neighborhood called The Beaches. It was like a drink of cool, clean water after the grit and the noise and the hardscapes of downtown Toronto. I could take a deep breath here, appreciating the shading greenery of Glen Stewart Park.
The Beaches has everything. Beaches along a massive body of water. Greenspaces. Smaller-town feel. Proximity to the Big City proper. ... Of course, all of this comes with a mighty price tag for those who want to live here.
Has there ever been a cheese I didn't like? Nope, don't think so. Strong, gentle, pungent, mild, hard, soft, spreadable, crumbly, curdly, white, yellow, orange, shot through with blue mold. Doesn't matter. C'est good.
Remember the cheese, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
One day, Sandy and I walked, bused, and subway-ed to see her friend, Hilda, a woman who emigrated from Ecuador years ago. The photo above is of a bus stop near Hilda's place.
Hilda is a woman who takes pleasure in creating beautiful meals for herself and others; she prepared a three-course lunch for us in her petite apartment.
What pleasure there is in eating good food and drinking good wine in the company of vibrant people! Or, as I saw reference to recently: in the company of sparkling human beings!
Writing this reminds me of a lunch al fresco in Mtskheta outside of Tbilisi, Georgia. Sandy was there, too, along with another TLG comrade, Eberle - who, like Sandy, lives in Canada.
Lunch in Mtskheta with Sandy and Eberle, Caucasus Georgia. November 2011.
Sandy and I walked down (up?) University Street on our way to see Jane Bunnet and Hilario Duran at the boutique department store on Bloor. The walk felt interminable.
As we proceeded up the congested sidewalk, I saw a wavery mirage on the side of a large building.
At first it made no sense. It was immense. It was some sort of graphic. Vibrant color. Undefined shape.
Heart on University Street, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
Was it a huge photo that was actually inside the building and I was seeing it through a glass exterior? Or was it some sort of projection onto the side of the building? A reflection from another building that faced this one?
What was it? Gigantic, red, amorphous.
Finally, when we got close enough, I saw. A heart. Not a heart like a Valentine heart. Not a painterly rendition of a heart. An actual heart, as in ripped from a chest, heart. A real heart. Wha????
Heart on University Street, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
Swing at the Harbourfront, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
If I were a religious sort, I'd say that one must add swing to the list of dance and music that make a "joyful noise to the Lord:"
Make a joyful noise to the Lord, all the earth; break forth into joyous song and sing praises! 5 Sing praises to the Lord with the lyre, with the lyre and the sound of melody! 6 With trumpets and the sound of the horn make a joyful noise before the King, the Lord!
7 Let the sea roar, and all that fills it; the world and those who dwell in it! 8 Let the rivers clap their hands; let the hills sing for joy together
In the summer, at Toronto's Harbourfront, there are regular dance events, each time featuring a different style. One evening, Sandy, her friend Heloise, and I partook of swing. Video below:
A joyful noise!
Swing at the Harbourfront, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
Fish, Toronto's PATH, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
A couple of times, Sandy and I walked the underground pedestrian highway (the PATH) to get from a point A to a point B.
As with Tbilisi and Istanbul, Toronto's underground system houses shops and restaurants. Ripped from this page are highlights of Toronto's PATH:
According to Guinness World Records, PATH is the largest underground
shopping complex with 30 km (19 miles) of shopping arcades. It has
371,600 square meters (4 million square feet) of retail space. fact, the
retail space connected to PATH rivals the West Edmonton Mall in size.
The approximate 1,200 shops and services found in PATH, employ about 5,000 people.
More than 50 buildings/office towers are connected through PATH.
Twenty parking garages, six subway stations, two major department
stores, eight major hotels, and a railway terminal.
I liked a collection of steel fish laid into the floor at one spot.
I like the imagery of us humans swimming desultorily through the PATH air stream, poking our heads in, around, under small pebbles and rocks as we make our way.
Did you read Shirley Jackson's short story, The Lottery, in high school?
Before most of my readers were born, there was a suspenseful TV mini-series starring Bette Davis, in her aged time. And a very young Rosanne Arquette, pre-Executioner's Song. The movie was The Dark Secret of Harvest Home. Mmm, the Corn King.
Two stories placed in locales and cultures seemingly bucolic and healthy, where the people are so gosh-darned salt-of-the-earth, so nice.
But then we learn there is a sinister secret beneath the pastoral pleasantness.
You can imagine my shock at seeing this ... this ..... altar .... in Toronto's City Hall.
Ritual altar, Toronto City Hall, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
Suddenly, it all became clear.
Those Canadians, so polite, mild-mannered, gentle, on the surface. Citizens of a country that seems to be in the good graces of all nations.
Who knew Canada was under the dark protection of an alien god which feeds on regular sacrifices of unwitting tourists?
Nothing wrong with this, just human nature. Animal nature, in fact. We stare at or draw closer to that which is different and curious to us.
Toronto seems to like its organs. Like those brains.
And these uteri:
Uteri. Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
I'm sure uteri must be tasty, but I don't know. Kind of primal, like a new mother eating the placenta of her newborn. Does a woman feel the same about eating a uterus as a man feels about eating a uterus? Maybe this question also applies to eating fried scrota.
Is there a different flavor between a uterus that has never carried a fetus versus one that has?
Below is an excerpt from a Village Voice article on pig uteri:
The reproductive organs are slippery and crunchy--again, not unlike
overcooked squid. But, like beef penis, uterus doesn't have much flavor,
except a whiff of very wet dog, and an aftertaste of musky, murky
piggishness.
Pig tails. Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
The above pig tails don't fall into the organ category, but I've got to put them somewhere. Consider them a lagniappe. Brings back memories of the Step 'n Strut Trail Ride in Plaisance, Louisiana, a few years ago, at which fried pig tails were available. I regret I didn't try them then.
Fried pig tails, Step n Strut, Plaisance, Louisiana. November 2014.
While we're reminiscing, and speaking of brains, I remember those sizzling brains in Kutaisi, in Caucasus Georgia, which Sandy and I visited together.
We rented bicycles and got in a good workout while exploring the terrain.
Toronto Islands, Toronto, Canada. June 2016.
Boardwalk, Toronto Islands, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
There's touristy stuff a-plenty on the islands, but there's also a village community.
Village cottage on Toronto Islands, Toronto, Ontario, Canada. June 2016.
A narrow black-top in the village swings a generous curve, where there are well-tended garden beds on the island edge, framing views of the Toronto skyline across the water.
Toronto skyline from Toronto Islands, Toronto, Canada. June 2016.
Toronto skyline from Toronto Islands, Toronto, Canada. June 2016.
Toronto skyline from Toronto Islands, Toronto, Canada. June 2016.
Toronto skyline from Toronto Islands, Toronto, Canada. June 2016.
A little further past this bend and the foliage gives way to rocks and a wide-open view of the city.
Toronto skyline from Toronto Islands, Toronto, Canada. June 2016.
Toronto skyline from Toronto Islands, Toronto, Canada. June 2016.