Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 3

 My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

On the plane a woman was talking about a Sufi (whirling dervishes) dance that was not to be missed.  So after the Giza tour, I left by taxi to go - taxi driver was unsure of place but got me there. 

A man approached and told me where it was but not for another hour.  He offered to show me the mosque nearby.  He took me all the way up to the roof - wonderful view.  As we were leaving I offered to make a donation to the mosque; with a smile, he said no, to give it to him.  Ah, the baksheesh (tipping everyone). 

He then took me to his friend's restaurant, who made pizza that made you eat your fingers (maybe he meant lick your fingers; maybe not).

Along the way I was introduced to one of the drummers from the Sufi performance.  He would give me a CD of the performance after.  During dinner the friend told me about life in Egypt and how hard it's been since the revolution.  He would meet me after the performance and show me some handicrafts and a jewelry factory.  Better to buy Egyptian than Chinese - that made sense, but I didn't plan to buy anything.  So I followed these two men all through the dark alleyways of the souk and bought jewelry, papyrus paintings, and inlaid boxes.   How's that for not buying anything.  

At one point I ran out of money and they were gracious enough to find an ATM.  But it was fun and I have pictures of the craftsman making the items.  At the end of the evening I offered a tip to them, of course.  The saying is "whatever your heart says - but couldn't it say a bit more," this in regard to the tip.  

The Sufi performance was entrancing, beautiful, and unlike anything I've ever seen.  The drumming was unbelievable.  One Sufi whirled for 15 minutes.  It's a religious experience that's supposed to put them in a trance.  Got back home about 10:30-what an experience.

More to come.  Did I mention I'm now in Luxor, sitting at the hotel rooftop deck, overlooking the beautiful blue Nile? 

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 2

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

Got a late start today as I was tired from touring pyramids and shopping.  So today (Thurs.) I went to the Egyptian Museum. What a magnificent collection of statuary, furniture and jewelry.  Boy, the pharaohs loved jewelry.  This is the best museum in my opinion.  I wandered around leisurely and saw everything.  

A young woman (21yo) came up and asked if she could converse with me in English.  Her teacher recommended this approach.  We spoke for awhile and she invited me to come to her home.  I explained I was leaving in the morning, we talked a bit more and she said come to my home this afternoon.  She called her mama who said yes and then I agreed.  I had no other plans and what an experience to visit an Egyptian home.  Haanan was a pretty, enthusiastic young woman.  She had her younger brother and sister with her.

So after taking pictures outside the museum, we were off to have an ice cream.  I bought her mama a kilo box of cookies as a gift.  We took the subway, a young woman immediately offered me her seat (it's the silver hair). We then took a tuk tuk (small crowded bus).  Trip took about 40 minutes.  The family lives in a 3 bedroom apartment, kitchen and bath, down a dusty side alley.

On the way I am introduced to the neighbors and shop keepers.  Haanan has 5 brothers and 1 sister.  Mama is 46 yo, Baba owns a kosher resturant.  The brother, Magdy (mid 20s) was home. He wants to come to America and work as a chef.  It was agreed I would look into writing a letter of invitation to help get his green card.  The mamma served me fresh squeezed orange juice and tea.  She also gave me prayer beads from Russia.  When I told her we are sisters of the heart she pointed to her eyes as if to say I have tears, me too. 

Then it was time to take pictures and they all walked me to a cab.  Cab driver assured he knew the way and only had to ask twice but I got home at 9:30 safe and sound.

 The Egyptian people are beautiful.  Another amazing experience.

Tomorrow I leave for the Nile cruise. 

KATE

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 1

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

All is going well.  I caught a taxi when I arrived in Cairo at midnight.  The driver sped through traffic weaving in and out, tooting the horn to let other cars know he's coming through. I just say a prayer and look out the side window.  The roads have no defined lanes and if they do the driver straddles the lanes to keep his options open.  Also, there are no stop lights and the one I saw, the driver went right through.

People cross anywhere even with traffic coming.  The first time I crossed a street I stood on the corner for five minutes trying to figure it out.  The best strategy is to cross with a family - maybe they'll stop for small children.  That said I only saw two fender benders.

My hotel is down a side street in a commercial area.  The hotel is on the 4th floor with a three person lift.  My room has pine floors, a sink and little balcony ( no view but glad to have).  There are 10 ft. double doors to my room.  It has lots of old Egyptian charm.  The shared bathroom was fine, and there was plenty of hot water!

Tuesday my first day, I set out with vague directions to walk to the large market, Khane al-Khalili.  The sidewalks were full of vendors with their wares spread out on the ground and lots of people browsing, almost impossible to walk through.  You understand I am in the common folk area - and the vendors are calling out "welcome to Egypt".  Did I mention I'm the only European tourist around?  Tourism is down 65% since last year.  I walked for a couple hours; never got to the market, but got comfortable with the area.

On Wed hired a taxi and went to Giza and two other areas with pyramids.  Went down into a pyramid at Dashur.  There is a long, steep ramp down into it and then several rooms with nothing in them (everything has been removed to museums).  I was the only one down there and it still felt close.  I can't imagine being there with a lot of people.  Did I mention I had to crouch the whole way down? I had stiff legs the next day.

The drive out was through rural areas. Many donkeys pulling carts and forests of palm trees.
At Giza I toured the pyramids in a horse-drawn cart.  On the way there was a funeral, two coffins carried with men walking along.  Woman can attend the service in the mosque but not walk behind the coffin.

It's so weak to say the pyramids are magnificent but they are. The sphinx was carved from the rock it rests on, so it is one piece.  Napoleon shot off the sphinx's nose in the 18th century.  The guide said Napoleon thought the sphinx would come to life and fight him.  Another guide told me the foot of a famous statue is in the British museum and they want it back!

I'm sending this first installment as I'm going to order a falafel for lunch and don't want to lose my email.

KATE