Kate (and Pam) On the Loose, Part 10: Jordan

My good friends, Kate and Pam, were in Jerusalem and Jordan before coming to Georgia. Kate started as a solo adventuress in Egypt. Kate and Pam met up in Jerusalem. From Kate's journal:

Petra, Jordan. Treasury Building. Photo credit: Kate

 
There are three crossing points between Israel and Jordan.  One is at Eilat in the south.  If you remember I crossed there with the Russian group leaving Egypt.  It took three hours in the middle of the night.  The crossing at Allenby Bridge requires a visa as it is the only point Palestinians can cross into Israel.  We crossed at the Jordan River crossing.  We expected it would take many hours but got through in one hour.  I had my story ready as the guide on the Russian tour said they might give me trouble since I said I would only stay in Israel one day-but they didn't even question me.

We then got a taxi for the four-hour drive down Kings Highway to Petra.  I slept all the way since I wasn't feeling well.  Pam conversed with the driver even though he had minimal English.  He made several calls to find us lodging in Petra.  We ended up with a perfectly located, reasonably priced hotel.  No problem.

The next day we went to the archeological site of Petra-truly one of the wonders of the world.  You enter through the Sig ( a narrow canyon with 100 ft rock walls on either side).  The rock walls are smooth and curved,  the rocks have layers of color - black, beige, red, pink, and gray.  In the 1960s there was a torrential rain which caused a flash flood.  The flood drowned several French nuns.  After that the Swiss built a series of small trap dams in the walls to prevent future flooding.

Many nations have participated in the excavation and maintenance of this treasured site.  After walking through the Sig for 20 minutes you turn a corner and there is the Treasury Building. An imposing red rock building carved into the face of a mountain.  ( I will send a picture under separate cover) There are many other temples, tombs, and structures in this large complex.  The complex was built by the Nabateans in the 6th century.  Did I mention it was very hot and dusty and we walked and walked.  There were cute Bedouin children offering rides on horses, donkeys, camels and horse drawn carriages.  We rode everything but a camel.  I did mention it was hot didn't I.

We talked with several handsome young bedouin men as we had a cold drink.  When they found out we had beautiful daughters one man said "bring them here I will marry them-his friends said you are already married, he replied, no problem".  They live in cave homes 30 minutes from Petra and commute by donkey.  The caves have tv, computer, and lights all powered by a generator.

We bought a two day pass to Petra and even though we were exhausted after the first day we went for the second day.  By the end of the second day I said I cannot walk the twenty minutes out of the Sig.  The problem was we had spent all our money.  I said we'll get in a carriage and deal with no money when it's time to pay.  So we did.  At the end of the ride I told the driver we had no money but if he would wait we'd go to the ATM.  He put us on horses and we rode to the ATM.  Of course we had to pay for that ride also.  No matter.

The next day we went to Wadi Musa, a nature preserve of rocky mountains banked by sand dunes and vast expanse of barren desert.  It is a stark but awesome landscape.  I celebrated Easter in this wonderful creation of God.  Pam had booked us a two day one night tour owned by two Bedouin brothers.  We traveled in the back of a pickup truck with a covering for shade.  We toured for about four hours.  At one point our driver (a Bedouin dressed in a white gown with a red and white headress-very striking and handsome) said now you get out and walk, I will go ahead and prepare lunch.  So we did, walking for 30 minutes.  Did I mention it was hot and dusty here too!   At one point there was a fork in the sandy path.

Pam chose the way and got us there safely.  The guide had spread a woven mat for us to sit on, gathered some twigs for a fire and made us tea.  They do love tea flavored with sage or mint.

The camp we stayed over night at had about 15 tents set up. We slept on cots and it had a dirt floor.  The tents were covered in a goat hair material.  There were bathrooms (western style- not Turkish- I'm too old to squat - I can get down but getting up is a big problem- perhaps too much information.  Also a dining and lounging area.  Dinner was a Bedouin BBQ,  chicken and veggies baked in a metal tub in ground covered with sand.  It was delicious and accompanied with many salads.

After dinner the men played the lute and sang and danced.  The sky was filled with many bright stars.  The next morning I rode a camel for two hours back to the visitor center.  Enjoyed the ride very much, the trick is to relax and go with the jostling as opposed to riding a horse where you try to sit erect.  Oh well, I didn't fall off and the camel didn't spit at me.

Next onto Aqaba by taxi.  Pam booked us into a charming beachside hotel with a swimming pool and terrace.  We enjoyed the luxury.  I don't think I mentioned it but during one of our many taxi rides the driver gave Pam a nice massage of her hand and fingers. She said it helped with the bit of arthritis in her hands.

I was feeling a bit neglected but at the hotel near the pool I asked an older man something, after answering my question, he said sit down.  He then proceed to message my head, earlobes, and shoulders.-very nice.  I can't imagine this happening in the USA but when in Jordan do as the Jordanians do.

On to Tel Aviv and the flight to Georgia!


KATE

Kate (and Pam) on the Loose, Part 9: After Jerusalem

 My good friends, Kate and Pam, were in Jerusalem and Jordan before coming to Georgia. Kate started as a solo adventuress in Egypt. Kate and Pam met up in Jerusalem. From Kate's journal:


When Pam and I left Jerusalem our destination was Cesarea as there are Roman ruins to view.  The trip there involves lugging our luggage on two taxis and a train.  Quite exhausting.  We stayed in a guest house in Binyamina.  This area was purchased by Baron Rothschild in the 1920's and settled by a group of Jewish immigrants.  It is a small resort town known for its wineries.  We spent the day touring the ruins which are on the Mediterraen Sea.  We met an artist from California.  She does very interesting fabric art.  Pam and I both splurged and bought a piece.  Mine will look great on the back porch.

I had an Israeli dish for breakfast, shakshuka (misspelled I'm afraid).  It was several eggs poached in a marinara type sauce.  Quite good but enough to feed an army.

Next we went to Nazareth which is a large city inhabited mostly by Palestinians.  We stayed in a guesthouse run by nuns.  It was in this crowed noisy neighborhood but when you entered the gate, it was a quiet oasis.  Most houses are surrounded by a tall solid fence or wall.  The small garden had many flowers and trees, also some fruit trees.  We stayed for two nights.  We toured many churches and ate a lot of good street food.  We also went to Nazareth Village.  It is a re-creation of houses and a wine and olive press as it might have been at the time of Jesus.  There also were many wild flowers growing on the side of the hill and a few goats tended by a shepherd.  It was a quiet oasis in a busy city.  It was quite well done and very touching.

Do you know that grapes are crushed by feet (men only) because if you crush the seeds it makes the wine bitter?  I always thought they stomped for the fun of it.  Olives on the other hand are crushed by a large stone because the pits need to be crushed also as it adds to the flavor.

The next day we took a bus tour of many places around the Sea of Galilee where Jesus carried out his ministry. We saw Cana, commemorated by a church where you can renew marriage vows, not applicable to us.  The Mt of the Beatitudes was nearby, that sermon is a favorite of mine.  We also went to the River Jordan where you can be re-baptised, it was pretty commercialized.

But in a quieter area I dipped my hand in the river and took my favorite picture of the river with a bull rush in the middle.  The picture will be framed to hang in the sewing room.

We left the tour and stayed on the outskirts of Tiberius in the old home of a past director of the YMCA in Tiberius.  Our room was high on the bank overlooking the Sea of Galilee.  The views were spectacular and it touched my heart to be in the place Jesus lived.  I must admit the nature in and around Galilee was a more spiritual experience for me as opposed to the grand churches in Jerusalem.  We had planned to walk part of the Jesus Trail and you might think 10 days would me enough time but it wasn't.  Anyway probably couldn't have walked far.

Now on to Jordan!

KATE

Kate (and Pam) on the Loose, Part 8: Jerusalem

My good friends, Kate and Pam, were in Jerusalem and Jordan before coming to Georgia. Kate started as a solo adventuress in Egypt. Now she is meeting up with Pam. From Kate's journal:


Ah sweet Jerusalem!  Jerusalem has several quarters - Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian.

The Lutheran Guesthouse was located in the Armenian section near the Jaffa Gate.

The old city within the ancient walls is made up of a labyrinth of cobblestone walk ways lined with merchants and their wares.  By the end of our four days we had figured out how to get from A to B.  The rest of the time we guessed or were lost.  But isn't aimless rambling the point of an adventure.

On our first morning we took the free tour offered by the Tourist Office.  He gave lots of history and tried to orient us, I was totally confused.  We did go to a small out of the way section of the Temple Wall and tucked a piece of paper with our prayer in a crack.

In the afternoon we went to the Dome of the Rock Mosque.  It is set on the top of a hill with a large garden and courtyard and of course the dome is covered in gold.

We of course went to the Western Wall of the Temple on Friday night and peeked through the wall separating the men from the women and watched the men sing and dance to usher in the Sabbath.  On the women's side it was lovely to see everyone dressed up with their children.  They would pray for awhile and then hurry home to prepare the Sabbath meal.  We also went to Vad Yeshem, the Holocaust Memorial. We spent four hours and it was one of the highlights.

The Church of the Sepulchre is very large and beautiful.  It is supervised by the Roman Catholics, the Greek Orthodox, the Coptic Church, and the Ethiopian Church.  While we were in the church the Roman Catholics had a procession to the Sepulchre, beautiful robes, incense, and magnificent organ music.  All the churches take turns worshiping at the Sepulchre.  The Ethiopian monks have been relegated to the roof of the church. Everywhere there is a pecking order.  I bought several crucifixes and laid them on the large stone designated as the place Jesus' body was  prepared for burial.

It was a special experience being in Jerusalem during Palm Sunday and the beginning of Holy Week.  The Saturday before Palm Sunday a procession of Roman Catholic monks led a procession through the streets.  They were led by a man carrying a large staff and striking the cobble stone very loudly.  At another time the same day, Muslim men with their prayer carpets had spilled out of a crowded Mosque and were praying in the narrow street.  So many faiths in this holy city.

A large part of the allure of Jerusalem is the energy. Everyone bustling off to pray or do some work.  It is jarring to see young people in uniform or not, carrying guns, on the other hand a group of handsome young soldiers posed with tourists for pictures.  Security was high because of Passover and Easter.  I felt very safe.

There is a large German church, Redeemer, it was founded by Kaiser Wilhelmina around 1850.  On Saturday night before Palm Sunday we went to a concert performed by 28 young women.  The church is all stone, excellent acoustics, and beautiful voices.  Then went back on Palm Sunday for an 1 1/2 services in German.  It is worship all the same.  The pastor's 3yr son got away from his mother during Communion and proceeded to cavort around the altar the entire time.

Our accommodations at the Lutheran Guesthouse were very good.  We definitely had some stars. A big German/Arabic breakfast was included.  The German part was cold cuts and cheese.  The Middle Eastern part was hummus, olives, and pita.  We also had a meal of street food that cost $30, they saw us coming. When I questioned the price he said it was FRESH lamb, must have been a prized pet.  Oh well live and learn, ask the price before ordering.  Our last night in Jerusalem we found the Armenian tavern, a cozy quaint place with great homemade soup and good price.

KATE

Kate on the Loose, Part 7: To Jerusalem

My good friends, Kate and Pam, are in Jerusalem and Jordan, soon coming to Georgia. Kate started as a solo adventuress in Egypt. Now she is meeting up with Pam. Received on April 6:

Well it's been several days since my last installment.  I want to assure you I have not been sitting around doing nothing.  Once Pam arrived on March 27, the pace picked up and time to journal has been limited.

Before I tell you about Jerusalem let me tell you about leaving Dahab and crossing into Israel at Eilat. Jimmy, my host at Bishbishi, arranged for me to join a group of people going from Sharm al Shiek to Jerusalem for a one day tour.  Jimmy instructed me to go on the tour and when it ended to slip away.  I said you mean leave without telling them-oh yes it's done all the time.  More to come about that.  So I bought the water and fruit as instructed and the van picked me up at 10pm.  Saby walked me to the van and when I tried to tell him goodbye, he said oh no I will go with you until you get on the bus.  So bless his heart he went with me for ten miles and waited twenty minutes until the bus came.  As I got on he said something about Russians.

The whole bus was Russian speaking except for me and four young girls who are in medical school in Sienna, Italy.  Off we went, it took about an hour to get to the border and three hours to get through security.  We also switched buses as they can't cross the border.

We traveled through the night and at morning's light we arrived at the Dead Sea.  We got out and many people took off their clothes (bathing suits underneath) and walked into the sea.  The mineral content is so high it buoys you and sinking is impossible.  People get their picture taken sitting in the water reading a newspaper.  They then put clothes on over their suits and got back on the bus.  Not pleasant for the rest of us.

Two more hours through the Negev desert and we arrive in beautiful Jerusalem.  Upon arrival one of the Russian men put on a black cassock and hat and it turns out he's a Russian Orthodox priest and several of his parishioners are with him.  Our first stop is the Church of the Sepulcher, Christ's tomb, this part of the church is supervised by the Roman Catholics and Greek Orthodox.  The tour guide would speak Russian for 15 minutes and then give us nonRussian speakers a three sentence explanation.  Needless to say we got the abbreviated version.

Several of the women had very emotional experiences and had to be assisted.  We also visited Golgatha and the stone Jesus was laid on in the tomb.  Many people laid crosses and other icons on the stone to bless them.  We also drove to Bethlehem( about 20 minutes away) to see the birthplace of Jesus commemorated by a beautiful church.  The tour was over and I told the guide I would be leaving the tour in Jerusalem.  She told me it was against the law as I said at the border I would only be in Israel one day and besides the bus would not be going back to Jerusalem.

At that I asked a tourist police if I could get a bus to Jerusalem, he said I could but I needed some Jordian dinars to pay for the bus.  He walked me to an ATM.  The guide later told me the tour bus would be returning to Jerusalem and I could get off with her.

Of course she didn't know where my hotel was located, so I'm walking around the wholesale food district I have stumbled into, sides of beef and lamb hanging everywhere, trying to find a taxi driver to take me to the Lutheran Guesthouse which no one has heard of and I have no sheckles.  The taxi driver found an ATM and the Guesthouse.  Hallaluya!!!  By this time it's dark( 6pm), cold and damp and after the taxi driver drops me off I still have to drag my suitcase about two blocks through winding cobblestone alleys.  But I made it only five minutes after Pam arrived.

So that's enough adventure for now.


KATE

Kate on the Loose, Part 6: Dahab

 My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 25, she wrote:

I arrived in Dahab Friday at noon.  The vibe is a lot like Montezuma, Costa Rica, but with more stray cats. My hotel is the Bishbishe, definitely a no star place, but of course I love it.  The rooms are basic but I do have an ensuite.

Everyone gathers in the outdoor lounge area filled with pillows and low tables, Bedouin style.  The owner is Jimmy, a very gregarious fellow, who loves to play backgammon.  They play in restaurants and love to challenge the tourists.

Yesterday I went to St. Catherine's Monastery, one of the oldest monasteries in the world.  We drove two hours out into the desert.  High stone mountains, no vegetation, lots of sand, it was very still and calming, had its own beauty.  Tradition has it that the burning bush GOD appeared to Moses through is still living within the monastary, replanted several centuries ago.  I have a picture.

The monastery is Greek Orthodox and the basilica was small but lovely, there were at least twenty chandeliers hanging.  Had some quiet time in the basilica and lit a candle.

We had at least 20 vehicles in a convoy for the return trip.  This is the area the kidnappings have occurred in.  We didn't have a convoy to the monastery so I figure they sleep in and only kidnap in the afternoon.

Today I went to the beach at a family resort.  Lots of children running around sans clothing.,also men in speedos, very European.  The water was calm and shallow quite a distance out.  Lots of wind surfers.  The area also has good diving.  I reclined (again) and read a trashy novel.  More of the same tomorrow.

Tomorrow night I leave for Jerusalem and meet up with Pam.  As the saying goes, next year in Jerusalem, but its tomorrow - can't wait.  But I will be sad to leave beautiful Egypt!!

KATE


Note from Mzuri: A true-life adventure story about two Victorian women and what they found at St. Catherine's here.

Kate on the Loose, Part 5: Sharm El Sheikh and Dahab

 My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 23, she wrote:

 

On Wed.  Flew from Aswan to Abu Simbel to see the magnificent temple of Ramses and his Queen Nefretari. These two temples were moved when the High Dam was built in the 70s.  They would have been flooded by the manmade Lake Nassar.  I went to the temples late in the afternoon so I could stay and see the Sound and Light Show.  Very impressive.  At the end of touring Ramses temple everyone else had gone and I was the only one in the temple.  A guy visiting with me while I had a soda said two years ago there would be 7000 visitors a day, now 500.  This is so hard for the Egyptians - come to Egypt it is so beautiful!!

My lodging in Abu Simbel was Escaleh built in the Nubian style, mud bricks plastered over; the ceilings were domed and the floors were rough stones.  Of course there was a patio with reclining couches overlooking Lake Nassar.  The food again was very good - especially a dish called tagen - chicken in an herbed sauce baked in an earthen pot.  The produce was grown in their garden and the chickens were also free range.

On Thursday I flew 12 hours - 3 flights to get to Sharm el Sheikh.  Got in at 11 pm and had an arranged ride.  When I met with the man from Memphis Tours in Aswan he kindly arranged my flights, cab pickups, and hotel in Sharm. After two nights in local Nubian guesthouses, the all-inclusive resort he booked for me was a shock.  All marble, crystal chandeliers, and western music.  My room had seating for 7, a shower for 2, and a bed for 5.  The suite was as big as my house.  Not my style.

So on to Dahab by local bus, as it's safer.  The guidebook said there was a bus at 10 am but no, only at 9 am and 3 pm.  So into a taxi I go -this scenario did cross my mind - she was last seen getting into a rickety cab with a guy in a white gown and a red and white checkered head scarf.  But the alternative of waiting in the bus station was worse than possible kidnapping.

We drive about 3 miles on the highway and then turn off on this little dirt road. I inquire Dahab?  He replies something that sounds like "no police", I settle back thinking oh, well.  Evidently we were taking a shortcut because we shortly got back on the highway.  We go another several miles and the rickety cab dies - I'm serious.  I've got to get in the front seat so he can lift up the back seat and tinker around, he does the same under the hood.  Meanwhile I'm waving off the hundreds of flies that have come into the cab to get out of the sun.  I'm fanning with my 15-year old raffia hat which has decided to molt, so I'm in flurry of raffia and flies. Meanwhile the car is not starting and a truck full of policemen stops - they talk for awhile and deciding I'm in good hands, drive off.  After about 20 minutes a van comes, I get in and the rest of the trip is uneventful.  Ah, the joys of independent travel!

Dahab is heavenly, laid back and right on the Red Sea.  I'm in the Bishbishi Hotel - $20 a night with an ensuite.  There is a covered outdoor area furnished with rugs and pillows to recline on.

I'm reclining there with a Stella, great Egyptian beer, and writing to you.  I had the best lunch, a falafel sandwich with a kiwi smoothie - $3.50.  I hope to eat there many times.

KATE

Kate on the Loose, Part 4: Nile Cruise

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 21, she wrote:

Boarded the Sonestra Moon Goodess at noon on March 17th.  There were eight people in a dining room for 80.  I sat with a couple, Cheryl and George, from Mississippi. He teaches archeology, specializing in the Mayan civilization.  The first tour was to Luxor and Karnak. Words cannot describe the wonder.  By the end of the first day, the nine, yes only nine passengers for the first three days, we were all friends and shared all meals at a large round table.

The other USA couple were Susan and Ryan.  She teaches 5th grade in Tulsa, OK, and Ryan is an architect working on a new airport in Qatar.

There were two couples from the UK.  Tricia and David, retired, in their early 60s.  They travel all the time as does the other UK couple.  Neil and Julie, great fun.  Neil is on the national board that promotes football (rugby) in the UK.  He will be helping with table tennis at the Olympics.  We had a great time together and exchanged emails.  Tricia and David invited me for tea at the Cataract Hotel.  It's the grand old colonial hotel.  Quite lovely.

Each day on the cruise we toured - also the Valley of the Kings and Queens.  Some of the tombs had the original painted decoration. I didn't realize the outside and inside of temples were painted.  Of course most has worn off.  They clean the paintings but don't restore them.  In Aswan we saw the Phillae temple, a granite quarry, and the two Nile dams.

To get back to lodging: I, on the other hand, had booked a Nubian guesthouse room.  I took the local ferry (me and 30 Muslim men and women) and then walked up a dusty road to reach the guesthouse.  As I was walking along a young man trotted by on a camel.  I do love being with the locals - no posh hotel for me. The room and ensuite was large and clean.  The jewel of the house was a roof top terrace overlooking the Nile and the few Nubian homes.

Time to go to another temple.

KATE

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 3

 My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

On the plane a woman was talking about a Sufi (whirling dervishes) dance that was not to be missed.  So after the Giza tour, I left by taxi to go - taxi driver was unsure of place but got me there. 

A man approached and told me where it was but not for another hour.  He offered to show me the mosque nearby.  He took me all the way up to the roof - wonderful view.  As we were leaving I offered to make a donation to the mosque; with a smile, he said no, to give it to him.  Ah, the baksheesh (tipping everyone). 

He then took me to his friend's restaurant, who made pizza that made you eat your fingers (maybe he meant lick your fingers; maybe not).

Along the way I was introduced to one of the drummers from the Sufi performance.  He would give me a CD of the performance after.  During dinner the friend told me about life in Egypt and how hard it's been since the revolution.  He would meet me after the performance and show me some handicrafts and a jewelry factory.  Better to buy Egyptian than Chinese - that made sense, but I didn't plan to buy anything.  So I followed these two men all through the dark alleyways of the souk and bought jewelry, papyrus paintings, and inlaid boxes.   How's that for not buying anything.  

At one point I ran out of money and they were gracious enough to find an ATM.  But it was fun and I have pictures of the craftsman making the items.  At the end of the evening I offered a tip to them, of course.  The saying is "whatever your heart says - but couldn't it say a bit more," this in regard to the tip.  

The Sufi performance was entrancing, beautiful, and unlike anything I've ever seen.  The drumming was unbelievable.  One Sufi whirled for 15 minutes.  It's a religious experience that's supposed to put them in a trance.  Got back home about 10:30-what an experience.

More to come.  Did I mention I'm now in Luxor, sitting at the hotel rooftop deck, overlooking the beautiful blue Nile? 

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 2

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

Got a late start today as I was tired from touring pyramids and shopping.  So today (Thurs.) I went to the Egyptian Museum. What a magnificent collection of statuary, furniture and jewelry.  Boy, the pharaohs loved jewelry.  This is the best museum in my opinion.  I wandered around leisurely and saw everything.  

A young woman (21yo) came up and asked if she could converse with me in English.  Her teacher recommended this approach.  We spoke for awhile and she invited me to come to her home.  I explained I was leaving in the morning, we talked a bit more and she said come to my home this afternoon.  She called her mama who said yes and then I agreed.  I had no other plans and what an experience to visit an Egyptian home.  Haanan was a pretty, enthusiastic young woman.  She had her younger brother and sister with her.

So after taking pictures outside the museum, we were off to have an ice cream.  I bought her mama a kilo box of cookies as a gift.  We took the subway, a young woman immediately offered me her seat (it's the silver hair). We then took a tuk tuk (small crowded bus).  Trip took about 40 minutes.  The family lives in a 3 bedroom apartment, kitchen and bath, down a dusty side alley.

On the way I am introduced to the neighbors and shop keepers.  Haanan has 5 brothers and 1 sister.  Mama is 46 yo, Baba owns a kosher resturant.  The brother, Magdy (mid 20s) was home. He wants to come to America and work as a chef.  It was agreed I would look into writing a letter of invitation to help get his green card.  The mamma served me fresh squeezed orange juice and tea.  She also gave me prayer beads from Russia.  When I told her we are sisters of the heart she pointed to her eyes as if to say I have tears, me too. 

Then it was time to take pictures and they all walked me to a cab.  Cab driver assured he knew the way and only had to ask twice but I got home at 9:30 safe and sound.

 The Egyptian people are beautiful.  Another amazing experience.

Tomorrow I leave for the Nile cruise. 

KATE

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 1

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

All is going well.  I caught a taxi when I arrived in Cairo at midnight.  The driver sped through traffic weaving in and out, tooting the horn to let other cars know he's coming through. I just say a prayer and look out the side window.  The roads have no defined lanes and if they do the driver straddles the lanes to keep his options open.  Also, there are no stop lights and the one I saw, the driver went right through.

People cross anywhere even with traffic coming.  The first time I crossed a street I stood on the corner for five minutes trying to figure it out.  The best strategy is to cross with a family - maybe they'll stop for small children.  That said I only saw two fender benders.

My hotel is down a side street in a commercial area.  The hotel is on the 4th floor with a three person lift.  My room has pine floors, a sink and little balcony ( no view but glad to have).  There are 10 ft. double doors to my room.  It has lots of old Egyptian charm.  The shared bathroom was fine, and there was plenty of hot water!

Tuesday my first day, I set out with vague directions to walk to the large market, Khane al-Khalili.  The sidewalks were full of vendors with their wares spread out on the ground and lots of people browsing, almost impossible to walk through.  You understand I am in the common folk area - and the vendors are calling out "welcome to Egypt".  Did I mention I'm the only European tourist around?  Tourism is down 65% since last year.  I walked for a couple hours; never got to the market, but got comfortable with the area.

On Wed hired a taxi and went to Giza and two other areas with pyramids.  Went down into a pyramid at Dashur.  There is a long, steep ramp down into it and then several rooms with nothing in them (everything has been removed to museums).  I was the only one down there and it still felt close.  I can't imagine being there with a lot of people.  Did I mention I had to crouch the whole way down? I had stiff legs the next day.

The drive out was through rural areas. Many donkeys pulling carts and forests of palm trees.
At Giza I toured the pyramids in a horse-drawn cart.  On the way there was a funeral, two coffins carried with men walking along.  Woman can attend the service in the mosque but not walk behind the coffin.

It's so weak to say the pyramids are magnificent but they are. The sphinx was carved from the rock it rests on, so it is one piece.  Napoleon shot off the sphinx's nose in the 18th century.  The guide said Napoleon thought the sphinx would come to life and fight him.  Another guide told me the foot of a famous statue is in the British museum and they want it back!

I'm sending this first installment as I'm going to order a falafel for lunch and don't want to lose my email.

KATE