Louisiana Road Trip 2011, Part 4: Vicksburg to Natchez

Mosaic tile in Illinois monument, Vicksburg National Military Park, Mississippi

Mosaic tile seal in Illinois monument, Vicksburg National Military Park, Mississippi

Illinois monument, Vicksburg National Military Park, Mississippi

This morning I went to the Vicksburg National Military Park.  Carol and I visited it earlier this month, but had only a brief time to whip through it. The park impressed me so much, I made it a part of this road trip's itinerary.

Visitors can hire a guide at $40 for two hours. I was willing to invest in this, but hoped to find one or more people who also wanted a guide so we could share the cost. Luckily, I was successful, hooking up with a Michigan couple en route to their winter playground in Gulf Shores, Alabama.

Watched the 20-minute documentary in the visitor center first, which gave an overview of the Vicksburg campaign. Having a guide really was a help: One, because a guide shares colorful factoids that you wouldn't learn otherwise. Two, you can ask questions as you go along.

So why is the park so impressive? It's the whole battlefield right there. You can see where the regiments camped, the trenches, a tunnel, the forts, the gullies, the ridges. Even though the modern terrain is cleanly landscaped and marked with monuments, the hellishness of the soldiers' lives during the long siege and its battles breaks through from the past to the present.

 

Credit: Sean MacLachlan

Speaking of past to present and the Civil War, I was looking at my   blog stats today and revisited a post from my week in Harar. On that day, I'd posted a link to Sean, a travel (and other) writer who is kinda-sorta from Columbia, Missouri, and who was in Harar the same time I was. I noticed he's got a new blog called Civil War Horror, and damned if he hasn't written a novel set during on the Civil War: A Fine Likeness. 

Holy Trinity Park, Taos, New Mexico

After leaving the military park, I found a forgettable lunch in downtown Vicksburg, then took a circuitous route out of town (read: lost) and made my way toward Natchez. Before I stumbled onto the correct highway, I serendipitously passed a monument of love from a husband to his wife at Margaret's Grocery.  Parodoxically, the day was so sunshiney fine that I couldn't get a decent photo to come out.  But the artistry reminds me of the work I loved at a pocket park in Taos.

Chicago: Day 4: Cold Culture

In December 2009, my mother and I went to Chicago. Here is Day 4 of the trip report. 

MZURI'S REPORT

Brutally cold on Thursday!

Nevertheless, we sashayed out of the hotel and decided to turn left instead of the usual right, then got on a bus whose driver said, yes, she goes to the Chicago Cultural Center, only to take us out to east jesus by the Chicago History Museum. Wow, was it cold! We blew into the history museum and asked how to get to the Chicago Cultural Center (hereafter referred to as CCC), and the guy suggested that perhaps we'd just like to take a look around his museum. When I demurred, he gave me directions to the CCC, then asked, "Why do you want to go there, anyway?"

Carol ventured the same question, to which I snarled "because it's a must-see for me."

So we entered out into the cold again, and lurched, shivering, for about a block (as it turns out we were practically on the lake), and got on the right bus.

Did I say how cold it was?

Chicago Cultural Center

The CCC is the former Chicago Public Library. It has an immense decorative dome with a gigantic Tiffany chandelier. Or maybe the entire dome is Tiffany; I don't know. But it's beautiful. The CCC has musical, dance, or dramatic performances daily. There are art exhibits on several floors. There is also a visitor center. Carol, obviously nursing some kind of grudge, pronounced it "barn-like" as we left.

Chicago Cultural Center

After the CCC, we walked three blocks to Daly Plaza (site of the Picasso sculpture). The kristkindlmarket is there this time of year, so it's filled with German vendors and wares. This includes the bratwurst and potato pancakes we enjoyed for lunch. We ate same in the Timber House, which is sort of like a beer hall. Picnic tables. Pretty well heated.

Ethiopian art, Chicago Art Institute

Our next destination was the Art Institute, a cavernous ("barn-like") building that housed, you know, like, art. We split up and joined together a couple of times as we perused the stock. Carol was most taken with the impressionists, particularly Monet's six versions of haystacks. She had just remarked earlier that day how she loved when an artist repeated a piece over and over and over again.

Doorway, Chicago Art Institute

Sated with culture, we returned to our hotel. Later, we went downstairs for dinner at the little Italian place. Carol enjoyed a Manhattan and I warmed up with a cup of coffee.


CAROL'S REPORT

As a Lady of a Certain Age times two, I think I did extremely well - each of three days walking without complaint for miles before I slept. Generally we forged out each morning around 9 AM, took numerous buses and a few memorable times the subway, walked briskly (me tottering gamely after the Guide) and both up and down many, many steps into the wonderful world of the tourist. As the Guide once proclaimed "when a person is in an unfamiliar setting the brain turns to mush" - very apt since at every bus that opened its doors for passengers who knew where they were going, she would dart forward and ask the driver how to get to where she wanted to go...I held back and tried to look like a knowledgeable native.

Caillebot's Paris Street, Chicago Art Institute

READER RESPONSES

FROM SHILO GIRL:
you're killing me! you are so funny!


FROM STORMY:
Again, are you taking reservations for the next trip?


FROM LABARQUE:
LOL :)

Millennium Park, Chicago

Chicago: Day 3: Red Coat About Town

In December 2009, my mother and I went to Chicago. Here is Day 3 of the trip report.  

Chicago Field Museum, Plants of the World

MZURI'S REPORT
 
On Wednesday morning, we took the bus to the Field Museum. This was kind of funny. We walked to the first corner and saw a bus. We asked the driver if he went by the Field Museum, and he said no, but we could pick that bus up on Michigan. I asked how far that was, and he said about three blocks. I thought, "Oh, OK, not far," being ever-mindful of a nearby whiner in a red coat. Then I thought to ask the driver: "Do you go by that corner?" And he said, "yes," and I knew then that, verily, God was great, and Carol and I got on that bus. I inserted my bus pass and went to a seat. Carol inserted her credit card and, lo, the bus god did spit it out. She then inserted her room key, and lo, the bus spit that out, too. Finally, she inserted a bus pass, and the bus god eateth that right up.

Approximately 20 feet later, the driver informed us that we had arrived at our desired intersection. We then went up some stairs, amidst some grumbling from Red Coat, and then picked up the #145 bus, which carried us to the Field Museum. En route, Red Coat wondered aloud, "Why do these Chicagoans wear only drab things? Why do they not wear colorful coats like me"? No one replied.

Field Museum. Today was a free admission day. The museum is vast. Could easily spend a day here.

Chicago Field Museum, Plants of the World

Carol and I split up pretty early on so we could each follow our own interests at our own speed. We met after one hour and then split again for another hour. The sense I had of the place was of an immense library, not of books, but of specimens. For example, there was a huge wing called "Plants of the World." On one hand, this library sense was good, of course, as it offered a visual catalog of the world's contents. On the other hand, it was so very static. The still figures of American Indians, for instance, showcased for their clothing, felt a little off-putting.  As beautiful as the stuffed animals were, how interestingly posed they were - they, too, were a bit off-putting. On the other other hand, the exhibits on Tahiti and parts of Africa made a real effort to bring the inhabitants to life, as if you were visiting their towns.

After the Field Museum, we took a cab ($13 including tip) to the Signature Room on the 95th floor of the John Hancock Building. Had lunch there with the city of Chicago surrounding us - below. Far below.  We enjoyed the buffet lunch (@ $18 each) which was good, but we were primarily paying for the view. Which was very cool. 

 

After lunch, we went up to the top floor (the 96th) to the Signature Lounge, where the restroom was. I could - literally - stand in the bathroom stall with the door open and look at the city laid out before me. And so I did, and I have the photos to prove it. 

We took the bus and then the subway back to our neighborhood. We came upon a new/used book store, called the After Words bookstore. We checked this out, spending possibly a good hour there. I found some vintage Robert Heinlein books that I snapped up, along with an old Frederick Pohl book. Carol found two books, one of which she's been reading ever since. Thank goodness, because she was getting a little vicious about taking mine away from me, as she had run through all of  her others. 

Carol sees something shocking in the After Words bookstore.

For dinner, I walked down to the corner dive and picked up some carryout for us.


CAROL'S REPORT
 
To any still reading:  The little thing I did with my room key and credit card on the bus was simply an effort on my part to break the over confidence my guide displays with her important contacts with bus drivers, docents, and the man on the street.  I almost think the more difficult the trek the better.  Subways and venues seem to be entered and exited by multiple tiers of steps either up or down.  The city is beautiful, everyone seems to be rushing and yes, the attire is drab except for my red coat which I only wore because it was less heavy than my black coat.  The temp is much like it is at home and with a long scarf  I'm comfortable.  Many of the men wear very narrow legged jeans - impressive.  This has been a fine time of the year to come...no long lines at any of the venues.


READER RESPONSES

Chicago Field Museum, totem

FROM BEEKEEPER:
You both should have a travel show on TV.  It would be an intellectual version of West Coast Choppers or similar genre.


FROM LABARQUE:
I think we all have read every word of every report. It is a wonderful escape to follow your adventures.  I'm shocked that Carol has the effect on bus drivers that they will actually talk to her.  I usually only get a grunt from my local bus drivers if I ask them a question.  She also moved a bus driver in San Antonio to drop her off at our hotel which was not on his route. 


 

FROM SHILO GIRL: 

I can just imagine Carol (or as she is known to Mzuri, Red Coat) getting a driver in San Antonio to drop her off at the hotel!

FROM HOLSTEIN BOY:
My favorite Chicago memory is when I went up with Older Son to check out a school. It was January and cold, windy, snowy. Everyone we saw went about with aplomb, bundled up as any normal person would be. We were still walking about after 2 am, went to Jackson Park to see the frozen statues, maybe get hustled, whatever. It was great. All big cities are like my small town, taken bite by bite, a word, a person, a block at a time. Life, indeed, is great and I will be looking for my own red coat soon.

FROM HOLSTEIN BOY:
Whoa. Too personal. I thought I hit reply. I would have hit spell check, syntax, emoticon and delete.


FROM SHILO GIRL:
you wax poetic.

Chicago Field Museum

 

Chicago: Day 2: Newbies at Large

In December 2009, my mother and I went to Chicago. Here is Day 2 of the trip report. 

Chicago

Chicago

MZURI'S REPORT
Yesterday, we each bought a 3-day transit pass good for both the bus and the el. We were able to do this at the grocery store a block from the hotel, which is about 500 feet from the el station.

So we took the el from Grand Street to Roosevelt, then the 146 bus to the museum area. It dropped us off in front of the planetarium. We experienced the kind of newbie mistake all virgin visitors make the first days, which was to be at the bus stop on the "wrong" side of the street. So we watched two 146 buses go by across the street before one finally came to *our* stop. And the driver instructed us to go across the street for the opposite-going 146 bus. Of course, now that we'd seen two 146s go by in quick succession, we had to wait for what seemed forever (but which was probably 10 minutes) for the next arrival.

Anyway, once at the planetarium, I watched a movie - Cosmic Collision - in the Infiniti Theater while Carol enjoyed coffee and a bite n the well-lit cafe along the lake. The movie was cool; sometimes you had the effect of a huge asteroid about to descend on your head. Lots of kids there, so lots of oohs and ahhs accompanied in short order by their teachers' ssshhhes. This was a free day, by the way, to enter the planetarium.

We then walked over to the Shedd Aquarium. Admission was $22 each. We went immediately to the cafe for lunch. The hostess there was personable and friendly, a trait we've noticed with all of our Chicagoan encounters thus far. Once Carol and I settled on a salad we, at the hostess' suggestion, shared it rather than each buy our own. This was the perfect choice. We found a table by the window, which overlooked the lake.

Carol and I saw two live shows. The "big" show featured beluga whales, dolphins, a sea lion, a couple of hawks, and penguins. There were some memorable moments, but because the focus seemed to be very young children, it palled pretty quickly. This would have been good information to have beforehand, as we might have given it a pass. The aquarium is organized into distinct aquatic habitats, such as ocean, amazon river, lakes and streams, etc. It does a good job of looking at the water habitats from different angles. For example it focuses on an area in the Philippines to tell the coral reef story. In the Amazon River area, the exhibits give you a look at the aquatic habitats during flood stages and during dry stages. In both cases, the exhibits also tell a bit of the stories of the cultures that depend on these aquatic resources. Interestingly, the aquarium participates in a program to cultivate coral.

On one occasion, while Carol sat on a bench reading a book, I inquired of an employee about where to get an elevator for my mother. A few minutes later, when I went to retrieve Carol and we walked toward the elevator, the woman called out "She's not your mother!" I looked back, as Carol did, and I said "What"? The woman said, "She can't be your mother." Carol and I walked to her, and the woman reiterated her statement, adding that we could be sisters. Carol beamed, of course, saying it was something about the youthfulness of her clothing. I said something along the lines of what a nice compliment to my mother and a not-so-nice commentary on me. The woman matter-of-factly acknowledged both of my remarks, then noted she'd had the same experience just the day before. I remarked that that mother and that daughter must have been just as pleased and just as nonplussed, respectively, as we. To which she again matter-of-factly agreed.

Carol and I took a cab back to the hotel, where we were in for the day at about 4:00-ish. We each had an unsatisfying dinner, about which neither deserves further mention.

The weather hasn't been a factor for us.  The buses and els run regardless, and we haven't spent all that much time outside. I will say: Cold, gray weather experienced in Chicago is far different than cold, gray weather experienced at a condo at the Lake of the Ozarks. I'll leave it to your imagination which is less likely to provoke suicidal thoughts after two days.


CAROL'S REPORT
 
Hi all: the 500 feet referred yesterday about the grocery store came out to about a block and a half which was my maiden voyage into yesterday's saga. The Collision movie description by Mzuri confirms my decision to "sit it out" with my book, coffee, a sugary treat and a striking view of the blue choppy water.  Agree with the description of the show...heavy on the Beluga Whales which waned after the first ten minutes.  The Aquarium was located about four or five blocks from the Planetarium and up forty steps.  I am glad to have this new and active life style - the juice of life is once again moving thru my veins and words fail me what a treat it is to have such a guide leading me thru the mysteries of the local transportation system and museums.  The grocery store is as huge as a Dierburgs or Schnucks and loaded with exotic frozen entrees.  Mzuri sixed it.  At least I was able to eat my Lean Cuisine Spaghetti which was surely worth the $1.99 it cost but no more.  This afternoon we are being whisked to the Hancock Tower for a buffet luncheon and view of four or more states.  And tomorrow Harry Carey's restaurant across and down a bit from our hotel...last nights meals were an aberration not to be repeated in this lifetime.  Adieu. 

Chicago: Day 1: Getting There

In December 2009, my mother and I went to Chicago. Here is Day 1 of the trip report. 

Chicago

MZURI'S REPORT
 

Pleasant train ride. I got on the train in Jefferson City; Carol got on at Washington, MO. A few hours' layover in St. Louis, then on to Chicago. 

I'd bought two sandwiches at Hy-Vee this morning + pretzel sticks + celery/peanut butter + diet soda for us to enjoy for lunch and dinner on the train. I also made a thermos of coffee. This worked out well. Carol drank a beer on the train.

We arrived in Chicago a bit early; about 8:20 p.m.

After a quick trip to restroom at Union Station in Chicago, we grabbed a cab and for $6.75 made it to the hotel. We're at the Hampton Inn and Suites on W. Illinois in River North. Great room: bedroom with king bed and large flat screen TV + kitchenette (full size fridge, 2-burner stove, microwave, dishwasher, sink, and breakfast bar) + living room with very large flat screen TV. Nice couch + chair/ottoman + coffee table + work desk. Free wireless.

Grocery store just a block away, which we've already checked out. Got soda stash.

Carol reading a book in bed.

Tomorrow's itinerary:

Adler Planetarium
The Art Institute of Chicago
Hancock Observatory

There's a little twist re: the Hancock Building that Carol doesn't know about yet ...


READER RESPONSES

FROM JACK:
So how's the weather up there?  Sounds like it's going from bad to worse.  You know it's cold when the car creaks.


FROM SHILO GIRL:
Creaking car.  Right.  Oh and by the way, the door was frozen shut on my truck this morning.  Gotta clean out the garage.


FROM JACK:
Younger Daughter told me it was her goal to clear a space in the garage for the 4runner over Christmas. I spared her the genetics lesson. She'll learn soon enough.

Alton, IL: Fast Eddie's, the Golden Bridge, and the Great Mississippi River

Melvin Price Locks and Dam, Alton, Illinois

Carol and I took an overnight trip to Alton, Illinois last week.

To get there, we took I-70, then got off the highway in St. Charles so we could ride through the river bottom lands on Highway 94. We saw a vast field of yellow flowers beneath giant electrical constructs.

Clark Bridge, Alton, IL

The Clark Bridge into Alton gleams like high-karat gold. It is simple and graceful; beautiful. 

Matt told me that Nova did a show on the building of this bridge.

Fast Eddie's, Alton, IL

First, we went to Fast Eddie's for lunch. My mother, Carol, remembers going to Fast Eddie's some 50 years ago. It serves pretty much the same menu: burgers, kebobs, shrimp, and brats. Plus fries. The food is pretty good, and it's ridiculously cheap. Carol's burger was only a buck, and it was a big damn burger. The business recoups with its drinks. It is common for there to be a line of people out into the street, waiting to get into Fast Eddie's. If I were to visit again, I'd like to go when there's music; otherwise, it's a rather tame place.


The Melvin Price Locks and Dam is the penultimate locks-and-dam going down the Mississippi River.

Melvin Price Locks and Dam, Alton, Illinois

 

Melvin Price Locks and Dam, Alton, Illinois

I took a walking tour of same and saw American pelicans there, taking a break from their migration.

Melvin Price Locks and Dam, Alton, Illinois

There were interesting shapes and shadows and angles in the locks and dam.

 

A turtle floated down the river on a dead log. The tour guide said that a barge regularly pushes accumulated debris downriver from the locks and dam.



 



There's a cool museum by the locks and dam - the National Great Rivers Museum.  The coolest thing is the simulator that lets you try to guide a barge through the locks.

National Great Rivers Museum, Alton, Illinois

Both the locks and dam and the museum are alongside the Great Rivers Scenic Byway.

We had dinner at the Riviera Maya restaurant out on Homer Adams Parkway. Surprisingly good Mexican restaurant. It offered the standard Americanized, "authentic," Mexican menu, but the restaurant did it well, taking the trouble to raise the usual rice and beans sides above the plate-filler level of quality. Good service.

The next day, we lunched at Just Desserts in downtown Alton. Loved being able to watch the river rolling by outside the windows. The place had received a heartfelt reference from a local, who waxed poetic on the pies. Neither Carol nor I tried the pie. I had a so-so salad. Carol had a quiche that was good, but not as good as what she makes herself. The potato soup, however, prompted a big thumbs-up.


 
We poked into a used book store in downtown Alton.

Clark Bridge, Alton, IL

On the way home, we saw a family fishing on the Missouri side of the Clark Bridge. They said they'd be happy with anything, but were especially hopeful for catfish.

Clark Bridge, Alton, IL

The bridge looks just as pretty underneath as it does on top.











I sure like Alton. It's got the elements I like in a small town --> strong and interesting city core; lots of trees in old neighborhoods; diverse architectural styles in the well-cared-for historic housing stock;  a vibrant artistic community; a nearby body of water. Best of all, you get the best of two worlds in Alton - you're really close to a large city (St. Louis), with all of its attractions, but far enough way to get the advantage of a quieter, more serene space. Alton's got the bonus of having a scenic byway running through it.

Chicago!

The first day of my trip!

I've been here once before. Came to visit with Carol on the train.


But today, I'm just passin' through. Here's an excerpt from that December 2009 trip:

Mzuri's report

Brutally cold on Thursday!

Nevertheless, we sashayed out of the hotel and decided to turn left instead of the usual right, then got on a bus whose driver said, yes, she goes to the Chicago Cultural Center, only to take us out to east jesus by the Chicago History Museum. Wow, was it cold! We blew into the history museum and asked how to get to the Chicago Cultural Center (hereafter referred to as CCC), and the guy suggested that perhaps we'd just like to take a look around his museum. When I demurred, he gave me directions to the CCC, then asked, "why do you want to go there, anyway?"

Carol ventured the same question, to which I snarled "because it's a must-see for me."

So we entered out into the cold again, and lurched, shivering, for about a block (as it turns out we were practically on the lake), and got on the right bus.

Did I say how cold it was?

The CCC is the former Chicago Public Library. It has an immense decorative dome with a gigantic Tiffany chandelier. Or maybe the entire dome is Tiffany; I don't know. But it's beautiful. The CCC has musical, dance, or dramatic performances daily. There are art exhibits on several floors. There is also a visitor center. Carol, obviously nursing some kind of grudge, pronounced it "barn-like" as we left.

After the CCC, we walked three blocks to Daly Plaza (site of the Picasso sculpture). The kristkindlmarket is there this time of year, so it's filled with German vendors and wares. This includes the bratwurst and potato pancakes we enjoyed for lunch. We ate same in the Timber House, which is sort of like a beer hall. Picnic tables. Pretty well heated.

Our next destination was the Art Institute, a cavernous ("barn-like") building that housed, you know, like, art. We split up and joined together a couple of times as we perused the stock. Carol was most taken with the impressionists, particularly Monet's six versions of haystacks. She had just remarked earlier that day how she loved when an artist repeated a piece over and over and over again. 

Sated with culture, we returned to our hotel. Later, we went downstairs for dinner at the little Italian place. Carol enjoyed a Manhattan and I warmed up with a cup of coffee.

CAROL'S REPORT

As a Lady of a Certain Age times two I think I did extremely well - each of three days walking without complaint for miles before I slept.  Generally we forged out each morning around 9 AM, took numerous buses and a few memorable times the subway, walked briskly (me tottering gamely after the Guide) and both up and down many, many steps into the wonderful world of the tourist.  As the Guide once proclaimed "when a person is in an unfamiliar setting the brain turns to mush" very apt since at every bus that opened it's doors for passengers who knew where they were going
She would dart forward and ask the driver how to get to where she wanted to go...I held back and tried to look  like a knowledgeable native. 

The el

Microscopic creature from Natural History Museum

 

View from Hancock Building

In the Chicago Cultural Center

Carol perusing art in the Chicago Cultural Center

A fine example of art from the Chicago Art Institute

 This is a scheduled post, written prior to 1/21.