Kate on the Loose, Part 7: To Jerusalem

My good friends, Kate and Pam, are in Jerusalem and Jordan, soon coming to Georgia. Kate started as a solo adventuress in Egypt. Now she is meeting up with Pam. Received on April 6:

Well it's been several days since my last installment.  I want to assure you I have not been sitting around doing nothing.  Once Pam arrived on March 27, the pace picked up and time to journal has been limited.

Before I tell you about Jerusalem let me tell you about leaving Dahab and crossing into Israel at Eilat. Jimmy, my host at Bishbishi, arranged for me to join a group of people going from Sharm al Shiek to Jerusalem for a one day tour.  Jimmy instructed me to go on the tour and when it ended to slip away.  I said you mean leave without telling them-oh yes it's done all the time.  More to come about that.  So I bought the water and fruit as instructed and the van picked me up at 10pm.  Saby walked me to the van and when I tried to tell him goodbye, he said oh no I will go with you until you get on the bus.  So bless his heart he went with me for ten miles and waited twenty minutes until the bus came.  As I got on he said something about Russians.

The whole bus was Russian speaking except for me and four young girls who are in medical school in Sienna, Italy.  Off we went, it took about an hour to get to the border and three hours to get through security.  We also switched buses as they can't cross the border.

We traveled through the night and at morning's light we arrived at the Dead Sea.  We got out and many people took off their clothes (bathing suits underneath) and walked into the sea.  The mineral content is so high it buoys you and sinking is impossible.  People get their picture taken sitting in the water reading a newspaper.  They then put clothes on over their suits and got back on the bus.  Not pleasant for the rest of us.

Two more hours through the Negev desert and we arrive in beautiful Jerusalem.  Upon arrival one of the Russian men put on a black cassock and hat and it turns out he's a Russian Orthodox priest and several of his parishioners are with him.  Our first stop is the Church of the Sepulcher, Christ's tomb, this part of the church is supervised by the Roman Catholics and Greek Orthodox.  The tour guide would speak Russian for 15 minutes and then give us nonRussian speakers a three sentence explanation.  Needless to say we got the abbreviated version.

Several of the women had very emotional experiences and had to be assisted.  We also visited Golgatha and the stone Jesus was laid on in the tomb.  Many people laid crosses and other icons on the stone to bless them.  We also drove to Bethlehem( about 20 minutes away) to see the birthplace of Jesus commemorated by a beautiful church.  The tour was over and I told the guide I would be leaving the tour in Jerusalem.  She told me it was against the law as I said at the border I would only be in Israel one day and besides the bus would not be going back to Jerusalem.

At that I asked a tourist police if I could get a bus to Jerusalem, he said I could but I needed some Jordian dinars to pay for the bus.  He walked me to an ATM.  The guide later told me the tour bus would be returning to Jerusalem and I could get off with her.

Of course she didn't know where my hotel was located, so I'm walking around the wholesale food district I have stumbled into, sides of beef and lamb hanging everywhere, trying to find a taxi driver to take me to the Lutheran Guesthouse which no one has heard of and I have no sheckles.  The taxi driver found an ATM and the Guesthouse.  Hallaluya!!!  By this time it's dark( 6pm), cold and damp and after the taxi driver drops me off I still have to drag my suitcase about two blocks through winding cobblestone alleys.  But I made it only five minutes after Pam arrived.

So that's enough adventure for now.


KATE

Kate on the Loose, Part 6: Dahab

 My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 25, she wrote:

I arrived in Dahab Friday at noon.  The vibe is a lot like Montezuma, Costa Rica, but with more stray cats. My hotel is the Bishbishe, definitely a no star place, but of course I love it.  The rooms are basic but I do have an ensuite.

Everyone gathers in the outdoor lounge area filled with pillows and low tables, Bedouin style.  The owner is Jimmy, a very gregarious fellow, who loves to play backgammon.  They play in restaurants and love to challenge the tourists.

Yesterday I went to St. Catherine's Monastery, one of the oldest monasteries in the world.  We drove two hours out into the desert.  High stone mountains, no vegetation, lots of sand, it was very still and calming, had its own beauty.  Tradition has it that the burning bush GOD appeared to Moses through is still living within the monastary, replanted several centuries ago.  I have a picture.

The monastery is Greek Orthodox and the basilica was small but lovely, there were at least twenty chandeliers hanging.  Had some quiet time in the basilica and lit a candle.

We had at least 20 vehicles in a convoy for the return trip.  This is the area the kidnappings have occurred in.  We didn't have a convoy to the monastery so I figure they sleep in and only kidnap in the afternoon.

Today I went to the beach at a family resort.  Lots of children running around sans clothing.,also men in speedos, very European.  The water was calm and shallow quite a distance out.  Lots of wind surfers.  The area also has good diving.  I reclined (again) and read a trashy novel.  More of the same tomorrow.

Tomorrow night I leave for Jerusalem and meet up with Pam.  As the saying goes, next year in Jerusalem, but its tomorrow - can't wait.  But I will be sad to leave beautiful Egypt!!

KATE


Note from Mzuri: A true-life adventure story about two Victorian women and what they found at St. Catherine's here.

Kate on the Loose, Part 5: Sharm El Sheikh and Dahab

 My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 23, she wrote:

 

On Wed.  Flew from Aswan to Abu Simbel to see the magnificent temple of Ramses and his Queen Nefretari. These two temples were moved when the High Dam was built in the 70s.  They would have been flooded by the manmade Lake Nassar.  I went to the temples late in the afternoon so I could stay and see the Sound and Light Show.  Very impressive.  At the end of touring Ramses temple everyone else had gone and I was the only one in the temple.  A guy visiting with me while I had a soda said two years ago there would be 7000 visitors a day, now 500.  This is so hard for the Egyptians - come to Egypt it is so beautiful!!

My lodging in Abu Simbel was Escaleh built in the Nubian style, mud bricks plastered over; the ceilings were domed and the floors were rough stones.  Of course there was a patio with reclining couches overlooking Lake Nassar.  The food again was very good - especially a dish called tagen - chicken in an herbed sauce baked in an earthen pot.  The produce was grown in their garden and the chickens were also free range.

On Thursday I flew 12 hours - 3 flights to get to Sharm el Sheikh.  Got in at 11 pm and had an arranged ride.  When I met with the man from Memphis Tours in Aswan he kindly arranged my flights, cab pickups, and hotel in Sharm. After two nights in local Nubian guesthouses, the all-inclusive resort he booked for me was a shock.  All marble, crystal chandeliers, and western music.  My room had seating for 7, a shower for 2, and a bed for 5.  The suite was as big as my house.  Not my style.

So on to Dahab by local bus, as it's safer.  The guidebook said there was a bus at 10 am but no, only at 9 am and 3 pm.  So into a taxi I go -this scenario did cross my mind - she was last seen getting into a rickety cab with a guy in a white gown and a red and white checkered head scarf.  But the alternative of waiting in the bus station was worse than possible kidnapping.

We drive about 3 miles on the highway and then turn off on this little dirt road. I inquire Dahab?  He replies something that sounds like "no police", I settle back thinking oh, well.  Evidently we were taking a shortcut because we shortly got back on the highway.  We go another several miles and the rickety cab dies - I'm serious.  I've got to get in the front seat so he can lift up the back seat and tinker around, he does the same under the hood.  Meanwhile I'm waving off the hundreds of flies that have come into the cab to get out of the sun.  I'm fanning with my 15-year old raffia hat which has decided to molt, so I'm in flurry of raffia and flies. Meanwhile the car is not starting and a truck full of policemen stops - they talk for awhile and deciding I'm in good hands, drive off.  After about 20 minutes a van comes, I get in and the rest of the trip is uneventful.  Ah, the joys of independent travel!

Dahab is heavenly, laid back and right on the Red Sea.  I'm in the Bishbishi Hotel - $20 a night with an ensuite.  There is a covered outdoor area furnished with rugs and pillows to recline on.

I'm reclining there with a Stella, great Egyptian beer, and writing to you.  I had the best lunch, a falafel sandwich with a kiwi smoothie - $3.50.  I hope to eat there many times.

KATE

Kate on the Loose, Part 4: Nile Cruise

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 21, she wrote:

Boarded the Sonestra Moon Goodess at noon on March 17th.  There were eight people in a dining room for 80.  I sat with a couple, Cheryl and George, from Mississippi. He teaches archeology, specializing in the Mayan civilization.  The first tour was to Luxor and Karnak. Words cannot describe the wonder.  By the end of the first day, the nine, yes only nine passengers for the first three days, we were all friends and shared all meals at a large round table.

The other USA couple were Susan and Ryan.  She teaches 5th grade in Tulsa, OK, and Ryan is an architect working on a new airport in Qatar.

There were two couples from the UK.  Tricia and David, retired, in their early 60s.  They travel all the time as does the other UK couple.  Neil and Julie, great fun.  Neil is on the national board that promotes football (rugby) in the UK.  He will be helping with table tennis at the Olympics.  We had a great time together and exchanged emails.  Tricia and David invited me for tea at the Cataract Hotel.  It's the grand old colonial hotel.  Quite lovely.

Each day on the cruise we toured - also the Valley of the Kings and Queens.  Some of the tombs had the original painted decoration. I didn't realize the outside and inside of temples were painted.  Of course most has worn off.  They clean the paintings but don't restore them.  In Aswan we saw the Phillae temple, a granite quarry, and the two Nile dams.

To get back to lodging: I, on the other hand, had booked a Nubian guesthouse room.  I took the local ferry (me and 30 Muslim men and women) and then walked up a dusty road to reach the guesthouse.  As I was walking along a young man trotted by on a camel.  I do love being with the locals - no posh hotel for me. The room and ensuite was large and clean.  The jewel of the house was a roof top terrace overlooking the Nile and the few Nubian homes.

Time to go to another temple.

KATE

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 3

 My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

On the plane a woman was talking about a Sufi (whirling dervishes) dance that was not to be missed.  So after the Giza tour, I left by taxi to go - taxi driver was unsure of place but got me there. 

A man approached and told me where it was but not for another hour.  He offered to show me the mosque nearby.  He took me all the way up to the roof - wonderful view.  As we were leaving I offered to make a donation to the mosque; with a smile, he said no, to give it to him.  Ah, the baksheesh (tipping everyone). 

He then took me to his friend's restaurant, who made pizza that made you eat your fingers (maybe he meant lick your fingers; maybe not).

Along the way I was introduced to one of the drummers from the Sufi performance.  He would give me a CD of the performance after.  During dinner the friend told me about life in Egypt and how hard it's been since the revolution.  He would meet me after the performance and show me some handicrafts and a jewelry factory.  Better to buy Egyptian than Chinese - that made sense, but I didn't plan to buy anything.  So I followed these two men all through the dark alleyways of the souk and bought jewelry, papyrus paintings, and inlaid boxes.   How's that for not buying anything.  

At one point I ran out of money and they were gracious enough to find an ATM.  But it was fun and I have pictures of the craftsman making the items.  At the end of the evening I offered a tip to them, of course.  The saying is "whatever your heart says - but couldn't it say a bit more," this in regard to the tip.  

The Sufi performance was entrancing, beautiful, and unlike anything I've ever seen.  The drumming was unbelievable.  One Sufi whirled for 15 minutes.  It's a religious experience that's supposed to put them in a trance.  Got back home about 10:30-what an experience.

More to come.  Did I mention I'm now in Luxor, sitting at the hotel rooftop deck, overlooking the beautiful blue Nile? 

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 2

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

Got a late start today as I was tired from touring pyramids and shopping.  So today (Thurs.) I went to the Egyptian Museum. What a magnificent collection of statuary, furniture and jewelry.  Boy, the pharaohs loved jewelry.  This is the best museum in my opinion.  I wandered around leisurely and saw everything.  

A young woman (21yo) came up and asked if she could converse with me in English.  Her teacher recommended this approach.  We spoke for awhile and she invited me to come to her home.  I explained I was leaving in the morning, we talked a bit more and she said come to my home this afternoon.  She called her mama who said yes and then I agreed.  I had no other plans and what an experience to visit an Egyptian home.  Haanan was a pretty, enthusiastic young woman.  She had her younger brother and sister with her.

So after taking pictures outside the museum, we were off to have an ice cream.  I bought her mama a kilo box of cookies as a gift.  We took the subway, a young woman immediately offered me her seat (it's the silver hair). We then took a tuk tuk (small crowded bus).  Trip took about 40 minutes.  The family lives in a 3 bedroom apartment, kitchen and bath, down a dusty side alley.

On the way I am introduced to the neighbors and shop keepers.  Haanan has 5 brothers and 1 sister.  Mama is 46 yo, Baba owns a kosher resturant.  The brother, Magdy (mid 20s) was home. He wants to come to America and work as a chef.  It was agreed I would look into writing a letter of invitation to help get his green card.  The mamma served me fresh squeezed orange juice and tea.  She also gave me prayer beads from Russia.  When I told her we are sisters of the heart she pointed to her eyes as if to say I have tears, me too. 

Then it was time to take pictures and they all walked me to a cab.  Cab driver assured he knew the way and only had to ask twice but I got home at 9:30 safe and sound.

 The Egyptian people are beautiful.  Another amazing experience.

Tomorrow I leave for the Nile cruise. 

KATE

Kate on the Loose: Cairo, Part 1

My good friend, Kate, is on a solo trip in Egypt. On March 16, she wrote:

All is going well.  I caught a taxi when I arrived in Cairo at midnight.  The driver sped through traffic weaving in and out, tooting the horn to let other cars know he's coming through. I just say a prayer and look out the side window.  The roads have no defined lanes and if they do the driver straddles the lanes to keep his options open.  Also, there are no stop lights and the one I saw, the driver went right through.

People cross anywhere even with traffic coming.  The first time I crossed a street I stood on the corner for five minutes trying to figure it out.  The best strategy is to cross with a family - maybe they'll stop for small children.  That said I only saw two fender benders.

My hotel is down a side street in a commercial area.  The hotel is on the 4th floor with a three person lift.  My room has pine floors, a sink and little balcony ( no view but glad to have).  There are 10 ft. double doors to my room.  It has lots of old Egyptian charm.  The shared bathroom was fine, and there was plenty of hot water!

Tuesday my first day, I set out with vague directions to walk to the large market, Khane al-Khalili.  The sidewalks were full of vendors with their wares spread out on the ground and lots of people browsing, almost impossible to walk through.  You understand I am in the common folk area - and the vendors are calling out "welcome to Egypt".  Did I mention I'm the only European tourist around?  Tourism is down 65% since last year.  I walked for a couple hours; never got to the market, but got comfortable with the area.

On Wed hired a taxi and went to Giza and two other areas with pyramids.  Went down into a pyramid at Dashur.  There is a long, steep ramp down into it and then several rooms with nothing in them (everything has been removed to museums).  I was the only one down there and it still felt close.  I can't imagine being there with a lot of people.  Did I mention I had to crouch the whole way down? I had stiff legs the next day.

The drive out was through rural areas. Many donkeys pulling carts and forests of palm trees.
At Giza I toured the pyramids in a horse-drawn cart.  On the way there was a funeral, two coffins carried with men walking along.  Woman can attend the service in the mosque but not walk behind the coffin.

It's so weak to say the pyramids are magnificent but they are. The sphinx was carved from the rock it rests on, so it is one piece.  Napoleon shot off the sphinx's nose in the 18th century.  The guide said Napoleon thought the sphinx would come to life and fight him.  Another guide told me the foot of a famous statue is in the British museum and they want it back!

I'm sending this first installment as I'm going to order a falafel for lunch and don't want to lose my email.

KATE